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Philabuster's Hobby Shop

Philabuster

Diamond
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Location
Tempe, AZ
I took on a job to machine some threaded adapters machined from 4140 hex stock.

To do the job right, I really needed to grab the stock with some hex collet pads. I spent the day yesterday machining steel soft jaws to hold the pads. I went with Warner & Swasey #5 471 collet pads because I already had a bunch of them in round sizes but I had to buy the 1-1/16" hex ones.

Everything turned out nice. Ran a bar end to check them out.
 

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DrHook

Hot Rolled
Joined
Oct 8, 2013
Location
Pierre
Forgive my ignorance, but what is the reason for doing that? More rigidity for the intermittent cut, or less chance of marking the material?
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
It looks like your tight on the nose, so I'm guessin' that you put a bit of taper in your bore?

What size W&S did those come from?
Dang - that must be a 3" capacity?
That's bigger'n a #5, whatever comes after that....

12" chuck?


---------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

Philabuster

Diamond
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Location
Tempe, AZ
It looks like your tight on the nose, so I'm guessin' that you put a bit of taper in your bore?

What size W&S did those come from?
Dang - that must be a 3" capacity?
That's bigger'n a #5, whatever comes after that....

12" chuck?


---------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
I chucked on a ring in the face groove to preload the jaws to the front and I bored the jaws straight.

These are marked W&S 471, which are 3" in diameter. My big Hitachi Seiki turret lathe is a #5 and had this series of collets with it when I bought it.

The chuck is an 8" Howa. I had some 10" soft jaws that were 2" thick so I used those for this project. I milled them down to 1.5" above the pads to reduce the weight.
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
.. just now remembering how W&S pads work:

So - you have a retaining bolt coming in through both of the bolt holes?
Can you change the pads with it together, or doo you need to dump the jaws first?


--------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

Philabuster

Diamond
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Location
Tempe, AZ
.. just now remembering how W&S pads work:

So - you have a retaining bolt coming in through both of the bolt holes?
Can you change the pads with it together, or doo you need to dump the jaws first?


--------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
I can change the pads without removing the jaws from the chuck.

I counterbored the pad retaining bolt so I can remove the jaws from the chuck without needing to remove the pads first.
 
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Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
I chucked on a ring in the face groove to preload the jaws to the front and I bored the jaws straight.

These are marked W&S 471, which are 3" in diameter. My big Hitachi Seiki turret lathe is a #5 and had this series of collets with it when I bought it.

The chuck is an 8" Howa. I had some 10" soft jaws that were 2" thick so I used those for this project. I milled them down to 1.5" above the pads to reduce the weight.


Oh I see, you turned a pocket in the front for your ring!
Of course you shouldn't need that anymore, but - yeah!


----------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

cnctoolcat

Diamond
Joined
Sep 18, 2006
Location
Abingdon, VA
US Shop Tools gets like $5-800 per set of these collet pad master jaws!
That's why like Phil did, I roll my own.
I like to make my top jaws as low as possible off the face of the chuck, just wide enough to seat the length of the collet pad. This requires the jaws to be removed to change the pads (we seldom change sizes), but puts the clamping forces as close to the chuck as possible.
The "W&S 471" pads are 3" OD (the bore you need in your chuck jaws), and have a max capacity of ~2-3/4" round.

ToolCat
 








 
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