Elliott Tool Grinder #5

You could go and lodge overnight at the Casino and then win a Jackpot so as to come home with a grinder and money left over.
Or not play any money and then tell your wife that you saved $1.000 by not risking it.

I am not exactly taunting you as much as "helping" you to see how much this would benefit your operation We can load but just give me enough heads up because we have to use the business neighbor that we share a drive with. I am not sure of the weight. I will get out there and look at the manual and get back you. This seems to be a well-outfitted piece. The guys that have responded here seem to love them. If you have a need to sharpen your own tools I think it would be a big help. That just doesn't comprise enough of our business to seem to make sense to keep it. Like I said, we have a turning center coming the 3rd or 4th week of January and we need to make room.

Plus it is a great knife maker's grinder.
One spindle end can be like a surface grinder and the other spindle end is a bench grinder....along with sharpening your cutters.
The table travel is long enough for a mag chuck and a cutter fixture.

michiganbuck said:

Plus it is a great knife maker's grinder.
One spindle end can be like a surface grinder and the other spindle end is a bench grinder....along with sharpening your cutters.

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Knife grinding - there you go - that should settle the matter. When do you want to come and get it. The manual says Net Wt. is 1876lb and the Gross Wt. is 2464. I have no idea what the difference is. Maybe the shipping skid it came on? Maybe depending on attachments that are purchased? At any rate, a 3/4-1 ton pickup should do it.

You guys are making me feel worse and worse for selling it!

Yeah the extra weight is probably attachments and packing/palleting materials, etc. At that price you guys can afford to get it shipped now! If I had anywhere other than outside to put it I would be sorely tempted. No room for me.

Yet another feature is that one can install a 1/2 or 3/4HP 3450 reversible motor above or offset with having a belt to one spindle end and so run it on 120 single phase.

On a good day, just the motorized work head and a tail stock would have a $500 price tag.

(X) but it is only an OK surface grinder because the down feed is suitable for .001 and perhaps .0005..plenty good for a knife surface grinder but not so good for gauge work (.00005 and the like)

This is a great deal, and it would be a great addition to my shop. And I appreciate the arm twisting and additional info! But a few aspects of the trip are not falling into place. It's not gonna work for me, so I'm stepping aside. Michiganbuck really wants it anyway! Thanks!

Actually, Joe needs to find a corner, get it off the pallet, and wire it up. It looks like it has a decent amount of accessories. Its way faster than grinding tooling on a surface grinder, mostly because you have a lot more room to get away from the wheel.

gbent said:

Actually, Joe needs to find a corner, get it off the pallet, and wire it up. It looks like it has a decent amount of accessories. Its way faster than grinding tooling on a surface grinder, mostly because you have a lot more room to get away from the wheel.

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gbent - I used to grind tools all day, every day, for 3 months as an apprentice. I liked it. That was 40 years ago. But now we have a shop @ 15 miles away that is so fast and cheap that I haven't ground a tool in years. The Elliot is a sweet little machine but it is more of a novelty these days.

We won a Hitachi Seiki with live tooling and offset milling that is waaaay more valuable to us. The Elliott has to go.

I have a cabin in the woods down in southern OH and I have thought about hauling the Elliott down there. It would probably come in handy down there. We are 40 minutes from the closest hardware store.

Oh yeah - forgot to mention - will trade for running or not running 4 wheeler or compact tractor as long as all the pieces parts are there.

I'll take it, please.
PM sent
Bob

Overland said:

I'll take it, please.
PM sent
Bob

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Got to find a good weather window now.
I've become quite Southern in my old age !
Going need Buck's phone number now as I learn to use it.
Bob

The best reference I know of, other than buck himself, is the operators manual for a Cincinnati #2. Your new Elliot is very similiar. 3rd place would be an old Norton book on tool grinding.

Here is a link to a pdf of the Norton book.

Hopefully this Community College instructor has safety glasses on..with no mention about wearing them. (OSHA)

Working straight in the wheel blow-up zone with not having a wheel guard (OSHA requirement)

No mention that the tooth lip attitude will decline in angle as it is pushed back as stock is taken.

No mention of checking with a flat gauge to see if the dish is there.

The end flute edge looks high near the inside of the flute end so likely to rub there, so needing a Gash or a poor surface finish and a double circle will result ..no mention.

QT instructor ( In this video, I will show you how we sharpen our end mills in the Computerized Manufacturing and Machining Program at ECTC.) Fail.

ELIZABETHTOWN COMMUNITY AND TECHNICAL COLLEGE should remove this you tube.

Good grab, that's a nice machine.

eKretz said:

Good grab, that's a nice machine.

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Thanks.
Maybe I don't need it, but I want it.
Bob

Overland said:

Thanks.
Maybe I don't need it, but I want it.
Bob

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Lol, I can say the same thing for most if not all of my machine acquisitions. Enjoy it.

Why would you grind the secondary before the primary? If you have to remove a lot of material its ok, but if it just needs a little touch up, its the primary that sets how much must be removed.

I agree it looks like the minor diameter will cut deeper than the outside of the flutes.

It looks like a very nice machine.
One thing not uncommon is grinding the primary on the machine and then grinding the secondary on a bench grinder or on a wheel at the back side of the TC grinder spindle, one can even have a large magnifying glass mounted there just for such grinding.
With a little practice, one can make factory-looking secondaries by hand..best that the wheel is high enough to you are comfortable with not bending over.
The video end mill sharpening could have had more travel toward the center (at 3:47) travel to eliminate the high tit that might rub in the cut.
It is good to have end-mill end photos near the machine so one might choose the one that best fits the end-mill. Often a thin dressed or angle-dressed wheel is used to by-hand to cut-in above the flute with one flute cut to the center. A parting wheel can also be used..with being careful to not make any tight places where a chip can get stuck. The video does show a nice end mill end design..a shame he did not make it look like the photo, but he should not have demonstrated using a grinder with no guard. that video should be taken down, ASAP.

Plane milling end (milling across) mills can have 5* primary, but plunge-use end mills should have more clearance (9 is better) IMHO.

I have at times ground the secondary first. One situation is when the primary needs a fine wheel surface finish. Grind all with the course hard wheel for speed of much stock for removal, and then last finish the primary with the fine wheel..almost a must for carbide gun drills and gun reamers. Yes, you need to chuck the row of cutters twice to make this quick.
One quick setup is to set a long V block with an end/but stop to grind drill at drill point angle by 12* clearance..and then by hand grind a secondary.. a super quick way to grind perfect drill points.

Oh, when grinding the secondaty first it is not uncommont to need to kick the the angle a half to one degree to make the primary to secondary land straight, so first of you grind one to see the needed kick..and the start a row of cutters.