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Line boring

Matt_Maguire

Stainless
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Location
West-Central Illinois, USA
I use a D/W laser to buck things in where in the past most used a bright light & plumb bob or string to cast a shadow for a reference. With a little practice you can get to a 64th or so pretty quickly. (depending)...

Wes really needs a "pick feed" or Geneva mechanism for that cool bar he made & go full auto with it. (I forgot about that post).

Matt
 

Hbjj

Cast Iron
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Location
Washington st
Here is the laser used
I drilled the end of the bar and held it with a set screw
And used a square with some masking tape on the blade as a target


Screenshot_2015-12-19-11-09-13.jpg
 
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Matt_Maguire

Stainless
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Location
West-Central Illinois, USA
The lead screw is modeled on a Bridgeport so I can add an off the shelf power feed when funds allow.

I really like it! So consider the following to put in the bag.

The most simple feed is to use the turning bar to rotate the feed screw in a ratio to bar rotation. So – A cam like feature attached to the bar & ticks a star wheel attached to the feed screw will get that done. Then all you need to do is turn the bar (by whatever means). In your mind you know that the feed screw now needs a keyway if the bar is pushed - or it needs a static position if a saddle is pushed over the bar with a feed screw in a trough or groove in the bar (these are the big bars).

Geneva drives have infinite feed rates, but are harder to build. So given any useable surface finish – in reality a few cams & star wheels will get it done. So - NO Geneva drive for me...

With either of the above – you don't need any power or motors… Yea it'll be tough & shallow cuts – but a bore can be made with only hand power – by one person. And no matter how fast or slow the bar turns the step-overs are the same.

About any which is faster part??? I've used rented “big C - CNC” bars & they a real fast if you have tapers or barrel features… But it doesn't set itself up – so for a straight bore it's the same if you have the same horsepower turning the bar...

Matt
 

Hbjj

Cast Iron
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Location
Washington st
Repairs to a boiler ash grate shaker bearing
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I have a hard time with calipers at the .001 press a spherical bearing needs so I built this so I can use a boring head and snap gauges
 

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Trevor34

Plastic
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Location
Canada
Has anybody ever put snap ring grooves in a bore while line boring. I had a rush job that required snap ring grooves in about a 4" bore. I ended up modifying the end of a bar to accept a small Narex head. It chattered but got the grooves done. Since then we have acquired the facing and grooving attachment from Climax.
 

timsmith

Plastic
Joined
Dec 22, 2015
We line bore from 1in to 16ft. Automatic welding any position and material. Look us up CFS.com
 

Warren

Cast Iron
Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Location
Sutton, NH
Just ran across this, a subject near & dear to my heart for nigh on 20 years now. It is what I do to pay the mortgage. A little something I was working on today.
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Shop built coupler for a Cat 950E. Pretty well made part. It has to be in the recycling industry. Man those guys are hard on stuff.

When I get back home I will post up some rock crusher stuff.
 

Warren

Cast Iron
Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Location
Sutton, NH
Here are a couple more from the same machine.

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Tomorrow I will do the Z bar that mounts between those ears.
 

bwilliams2

Plastic
Joined
Jul 11, 2015
Can I make the BW1000 work with any welder, or do I need to buy a new welding machine? I have a Miller 252 and a Lincoln suitcase welder for on site.
 

kustomizingkid

Titanium
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Location
Minnesota
I would love to get into this stuff... It would be fund to meld me mechanic, welder, and machinist skills into one job. I just got done putting a 544 JD loader back together that they bent. The boss sent it out to be straightened and they did a so so job, needless to say it was a chore putting it back together.
 








 
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