South Bend Picture Gallery

This is my 1928 SB. It has a 8' bed and two speed drive. It spent it's life in a gun shop in Spokane, WA.

before and after pictures of my 13” SB . Has been restored for about six months just got around to posting ��

That is a gorgeous machine....looks brand new! Does that color have a name?
Looks great in contrast to the putty cabinet.

Just finished my 9 C

Dangerdano said:

Just finished my 9 C
View attachment 332147

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Very nicely done. Pure and simple 9". Congrats.

svmade said:

Purchased lathe for $750 and designed and built the cabinet system with flip out end shelves for parts.
South Bend 9" R Junior model. Cat# 422YN
Still adding items from many sources.
Currently working on fabing up an atlas milling attachment to fit.

Looking for replacement cross feed nut and compound nut, if anyone knows where they can be located.
I did take about half of the backlash out of my bronze crossfeed nut by taping ( ever so carefully) the top to tighten up the threading.

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Hi. Newby here. I realize this is an old thread, but curious to know if you made any contacts over the years for part for your lathe. I have the same model and it's incomplete. Missing the entire countershaft and motor assy.

Here is one I picked up s/n 2496

Shared album - Adam Marcovich - Google Photos

My South Bends.....

1942 10l

South Bend Lathe Works Serial Number Registry - Lathe No. 135,116 | VintageMachinery.org

1952 9a

South Bend Lathe Works Serial Number Registry - Lathe No. 28772N AR9 | VintageMachinery.org
before you chastise me for the 9a being on wheels...It was necessary for a time so I could move it out of the way when not working on it.

Latest addition to the family.....
Yet to be restored
1961/2 13"

what is the bracket with a way on it and 3 taped holes above the quik change gear box used for i have the same thing

rputzbach said:

what is the bracket with a way on it and 3 taped holes above the quik change gear box used for i have the same thing

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Huh?? Not sure what you are asking...

On my heavy ten it is used to provide a mounting point for a micrometer stop when working close to the head stock

cnclatheman said:

Here's one with some neat history...

View attachment 262436

Serial Number - 10407TKX14
Catalog Number - CLC8175C
Bed Length: 6'
Extras - Handwheel collet attachment and rack, handlever collet attachment, large faceplate, telescoping jaw steady rest, telescoping jaw follower rest,handlever bed turret (serial number of lathe stamped into it), handlever turret (tailstock style), square turret, taper attachment, thread indicator, and an unused full set of metric transposing gears.

The back story to this machine is that is was sold by Star Machinery to Mr. Jim Gibbs of Hensley & Gibbs Bullet Molds in 1965. Quite a few years after Mr. Gibbs had (sort of)retired and his son Wayne had taken over the business, my father had become acquainted with Jim and they became very good friends. As years went by, Jim decided to start selling some of the machines he had kept, and at some point, he graciously offered this South Bend and a Bridgeport mill to my dad. To make along story short(er), Pop has gotten on in years and has not touched or run the SB for many years. It's pretty dirty but is in great mechanical shape and run like a dream. Needs cleaning and some paint here and there, but with it's history I may just leave well enough alone...
Here's a few more pics. Thanks for letting me share...
View attachment 262437 View attachment 262439 View attachment 262440 View attachment 262441

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H&G molds were some of the very best.
Great story to go with your machines.

Hal

Hello
Been been looking for a clean heavy 10 when I ran across this nice 1958 3 1/2' 9a. Came with a Buck 3/4 jaw, 6 pc 1/4" tool holders, Hardinge collets, drawbar, thread dial, Jacobs chuck ect... Motor is a newer Dayton 1/2 hp. Only needed a good clean up / oil. Test cut a 10" 5/8 brass rod .0003 taper. Spindle bore runout <.0001. Impressive for an old gal....

Recently acquired from a close relative:



South Bend 14-1/2" x 6', Model 8183C.

It was manufactured in 1945 and sold to Bethlehem Steel's Sparrow's Point mill in Maryland by Carey Machinery. Some years after that, Bethlehem sold it to an airplane mechanic who used it for repairs primarily to propeller hubs. That person sold it to my wife's uncle, also an airplane mechanic (and teacher of same), who intended to learn machining with it. That never really happened, though it has been used from time to time for projects in Uncle's hangar. (I used the lathe myself to chamfer some aluminum wheel spacers used when I installed a new front end on my 1973 GMC Motor Home).

The vintage is old enough to mean it has the smaller spindle--1-1/8" through bore and 2-1/4" x 6-tpi threads.

The original tool-room version was shipped with a collet drawbar and sleeve, plus a collet rack--those were missing. I have acquired a drawbar and sleeve--I want to be able to use the collets. This one takes 4C collets, but I was able to snag a small starter set of Hardinge collets just to get me going. I'll add specific sizes as needed. The supplied follow rest is also missing, but I think I can live without that.

Included was a steady rest, a very nice Rohm 7-1/2" 3-jaw scroll chuck (with both sets of jaws), a good 10" independent 4-jaw chuck, a 7-1/2" dog plate, and a shop-made 8" fixture plate that I will use as an adapter for a 12" fixture plate to save myself the requirement to make one. There are several dead centers, plus I'll use my Do-All live center. It also came with a screw-on collar chuck that uses a tapered collet with a threaded collet closer. The tapered collet it includes is 1-1/2", but it was designed to be used with spring sleeves that fit inside that collet to accommodate other sizes. I have 5/8" to 1-1/4" in eighths, plus 1-1/16" and the 1-1/2" that the tapered collet will hold without an inner sleeve. I have no idea how accurate these are, or their range. I'll test that in the fullness of time.

I'll add a pic after I move it to its new home (in about a month) and get it properly cleaned up. I am not a restorer, and it's a heated shop, so I won't be doing more than cleaning it up and making sure the maintenance is up-to-date. Oil is in all the cups and the felts leave an oily track. The spindle turns easily and smoothly by hand. If the ways are worn I can't tell it. The shift lever for the power feed is broken (it's just stuck in there for the photo), and I will need to repair that. That will necessitate rebuilding the apron, and I'll take a good hard look at everything else--headstock, drive gears, and QCGB. I have the felt kit and a good set of documentation.

The micrometer stop is frozen up, but I have a spare that came with something else that I have cleaned up. The carriage clamp is missing, but I have one of those, too. The taper attachment is included and intact.

The motor is not original. The original was apparently a 3-phase, 2HP motor. The motor in it now is an old (60's) Dayton 5K482--2HP, single phase, wired for 120VAC. Amp draw seems like it would be a bit high, but it runs fine on a 12-gauge extension cord. I will either rewire it for 240VAC or I'll run it from a 30-amp RV 120VAC receptacle in the shop, if I measure current draw as high as what's on the ID plate. The original leather belt is too stretched and I'll need to deal with that; it slips badly on the highest speeds.

I will set it up with an Aloris-style QCTP, CXA size, for which I have a selection of 3/4" holders for CNMG inserts, threading, and cutoff. It came with quite a bit of tooling and several Armstrong holders, so the lantern post isn't going anywhere far, in case I need to do something I can't put in an Aloris-style holder. It came with a box full of HSS tooling, much of it ground for cutting snap-ring grooves and for rounding over. But there are also a couple of pieces of fresh HSS conventional cutters of 3/4" shank, which will be nice additions to my insert tooling. I also have a milling adapter coming, which will fill in until I can replace my craptastic drill press with a small mill--that will come later. The mill is mostly for cutting occasional keyways and the even-more-occasional slot. Facing I will do on the fixture plate or in the 4-jaw, which will be big enough for stuff I find myself wanting to make.

Rick "who'll edit with a cleaned-up pic in its new home in a couple of months" Denney

rdenney said:

Recently acquired from a close relative:

South Bend 14-1/2" x 6', Model 8183C.

It was manufactured in 1945 and sold to Bethlehem Steel's Sparrow's Point mill in Maryland by Carey Machinery. Some years after that, Bethlehem sold it to an airplane mechanic who used it for repairs primarily to propeller hubs. That person sold it to my wife's uncle, also an airplane mechanic (and teacher of same), who intended to learn machining with it. That never really happened, though it has been used from time to time for projects in Uncle's hangar. (I used the lathe myself to chamfer some aluminum wheel spacers used when I installed a new front end on my 1973 GMC Motor Home).

The vintage is old enough to mean it has the smaller spindle--1-1/8" through bore and 2-1/4" x 6-tpi threads.

The original tool-room version was shipped with a collet drawbar and sleeve, plus a collet rack--those were missing. I have acquired a drawbar and sleeve--I want to be able to use the collets. This one takes 4C collets, but I was able to snag a small starter set of Hardinge collets just to get me going. I'll add specific sizes as needed. The supplied follow rest is also missing, but I think I can live without that.

Included was a steady rest, a very nice Rohm 7-1/2" 3-jaw scroll chuck (with both sets of jaws), a good 10" independent 4-jaw chuck, a 7-1/2" dog plate, and a shop-made 8" fixture plate that I will use as an adapter for a 12" fixture plate to save myself the requirement to make one. There are several dead centers, plus I'll use my Do-All live center. It also came with a screw-on collar chuck that uses a tapered collet with a threaded collet closer. The tapered collet it includes is 1-1/2", but it was designed to be used with spring sleeves that fit inside that collet to accommodate other sizes. I have 5/8" to 1-1/4" in eighths, plus 1-1/16" and the 1-1/2" that the tapered collet will hold without an inner sleeve. I have no idea how accurate these are, or their range. I'll test that in the fullness of time.

I'll add a pic after I move it to its new home (in about a month) and get it properly cleaned up. I am not a restorer, and it's a heated shop, so I won't be doing more than cleaning it up and making sure the maintenance is up-to-date. Oil is in all the cups and the felts leave an oily track. The spindle turns easily and smoothly by hand. If the ways are worn I can't tell it. The shift lever for the power feed is broken (it's just stuck in there for the photo), and I will need to repair that. That will necessitate rebuilding the apron, and I'll take a good hard look at everything else--headstock, drive gears, and QCGB. I have the felt kit and a good set of documentation.

The micrometer stop is frozen up, but I have a spare that came with something else that I have cleaned up. The carriage clamp is missing, but I have one of those, too. The taper attachment is included and intact.

The motor is not original. The original was apparently a 3-phase, 2HP motor. The motor in it now is an old (60's) Dayton 5K482--2HP, single phase, wired for 120VAC. Amp draw seems like it would be a bit high, but it runs fine on a 12-gauge extension cord. I will either rewire it for 240VAC or I'll run it from a 30-amp RV 120VAC receptacle in the shop, if I measure current draw as high as what's on the ID plate. The original leather belt is too stretched and I'll need to deal with that; it slips badly on the highest speeds.

I will set it up with an Aloris-style QCTP, CXA size, for which I have a selection of 3/4" holders for CNMG inserts, threading, and cutoff. It came with quite a bit of tooling and several Armstrong holders, so the lantern post isn't going anywhere far, in case I need to do something I can't put in an Aloris-style holder. It came with a box full of HSS tooling, much of it ground for cutting snap-ring grooves and for rounding over. But there are also a couple of pieces of fresh HSS conventional cutters of 3/4" shank, which will be nice additions to my insert tooling. I also have a milling adapter coming, which will fill in until I can replace my craptastic drill press with a small mill--that will come later. The mill is mostly for cutting occasional keyways and the even-more-occasional slot. Facing I will do on the fixture plate or in the 4-jaw, which will be big enough for stuff I find myself wanting to make.

Rick "who'll edit with a cleaned-up pic in its new home in a couple of months" Denney

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With that signature style you've got to be the Rick Denney who posts, and moderates, on the Large Fomat Photography Forum (where I go by my real name David Lindquist).

David

old_dave said:

With that signature style you've got to be the Rick Denney who posts, and moderates, on the Large Fomat Photography Forum (where I go by my real name David Lindquist).

David

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And posts on Garage Journal.

Paul "rockin' the same middle name for 62 years" Somlo

Well, yes, that’s me. I’m looking forward to cutting lens openings in boards more precisely—surely justification for a 2300# lathe.

And I’ve been using the internym since about 1998–it’s an ingrained habit now. I’ve caught myself signing work emails with an internym. I picked it up from Sheldon Brown (RIP) in bicycle newsgroups and lists, and Madeline Page (RIP) on the triathlon newsgroup.

My new shop has led me to GJ and a couple of machinist forums. I’ve done a lot of machining on a micro-scale (for clocks and cameras), but never to anything big. I surely have needed it many times, however—I’m strict about keeping stuff going with repairs instead of disposal. But this is the thread for South Bend lathe life stories, not the stories of their owners.

Rick “internym goes here” Denney