Headstock flush with kerosene-sight glass removal

Shape of glass

Just to beat a dead horse

Is the shape of the original sight glass similar to the highlighted portion in the sketch? Or is it a flat disk that fits (approximately 1" in diameter) that fits inside the cutout in the bezel; or a flat disk that fills the major diameter with holes for the screws much like the photo at the top of the thread?

Reeltor said:

Is the shape of the original sight glass similar to the highlighted portion in the sketch? Or is it a flat disk that fits (approximately 1" in diameter) that fits inside the cutout in the bezel; or a flat disk that fills the major diameter with holes for the screws much like the photo at the top of the thread?

Click to expand...

It's pretty much like the sketch, but with something of a hollow in the back. When I was cleaning mine I was somewhat tempted to see if it could be popped out of the metal ring but didn't spend any time experimenting. It looked to me that a replacement could eb turned from plexiglass pretty easily but again didn't try.

Another data point - the lens on all three of mine popped right out of the metal ring as mentioned.

Paul

Sight glass assembly and part numbers

Reeltor said:

Just to beat a dead horse

Is the shape of the original sight glass similar to the highlighted portion in the sketch? Or is it a flat disk that fits (approximately 1" in diameter) that fits inside the cutout in the bezel; or a flat disk that fills the major diameter with holes for the screws much like the photo at the top of the thread?

Click to expand...

Here's a detail from a round-dial headstock assembly drawing showing the old-style sight glass:


The setup included 3 cork gaskets and the sight glass. Working from the headstock out:

• Gasket EE-1072
• Gasket EE-1069
• Sight Glass EE-1071
• Gasket EE-1069
• Bezel EE-1358

The sight glass is just a round disk of glass, nominally 15/16" OD. The one I measured was 0.93" OD by 0.08" thick.

Cal

plastic insert

I would like to thank everyone for their responses.
sight glass replaced, used a plastic insert, cut some gaskets (rubberized cork) and used "non-hardening" form-a-gasket to seal it up.

Any opinion on powering on with kerosene to clean everything up? Planned on pouring a small amount of kerosene in headstock and draining, do this several times then fill to fill level and run for few minutes to clean any kunk out of oil pump and lines. Oil drained look real clean, only a smear of metal dust on end of plug.


Mike

Reeltor said:

...
Any opinion on powering on with kerosene to clean everything up? Planned on pouring a small amount of kerosene in headstock and draining, do this several times then fill to fill level and run for few minutes to clean any kunk out of oil pump and lines. Oil drained look real clean, only a smear of metal dust on end of plug. ...

Click to expand...

That's what I did.

Cal

kerosene

Cal Haines said:

That's what I did.

Cal

Click to expand...

I'll do the same.

I don't remember if it was in "another new toy" or "the wreck" regarding powering lathe on with kerosene or using recirculating pump that each was dangerous in it's own way. Is (was) the concern the possibility of picking up metal filings off the bottom and moving them to where they don't belong???

The primary purpose of the kerosene flush in "Another New Toy" was to clean the gearing and shafting, and maybe get more sludge out of the bottom when draining. There was a concern about stirring up the finds and getting them where they don't belong, especially in the bearings. Keep the power on the minimal amount of time, and at a slow speed. Don't depend on the power flush to clean the pump, tubing and meter units. Do that manually, and some advice; replace the meter units, they've been in there for 60+ years.
I would also recommend that you attend to the same details in the apron/carriage assembly, that is where you are most likely to find problems with the lubrication system. Refer to "Another New Toy" for disassembly, your carriage/apron is put together the same way. The headstock cover is a feather compared to the carriage/apron.
Harry

Pump in apron

beckley23 said:

The primary purpose of the kerosene flush in "Another New Toy" was to clean the gearing and shafting, and maybe get more sludge out of the bottom when draining. Don't depend on the power flush to clean the pump, tubing and meter units. Do that manually, and some advice; replace the meter units, they've been in there for 60+ years.
I would also recommend that you attend to the same details in the apron/carriage assembly, that is where you are most likely to find problems with the lubrication system. Refer to "Another New Toy" for disassembly, your carriage/apron is put together the same way. The headstock cover is a feather compared to the carriage/apron.
Harry

Click to expand...

I dont think I am up to the task of dissambling the carriage/apron, well to be honest I'm sure I can get it apart, it's the getting it back together that's in question

I would like to take the pump off the apron and clean it out. It looks like there is an assembly on the left of the apron held on by 6 screws. If I remove the screws and take this cover off will the pump come out and then go back in without any fiddling with alignment etc.? There is a hole in the face of the cover that looks like should have a Gits type oil fill fitting or was there just a plug to keep out debris? I am getting oil on the ways when moving the carriage so hopefully the lines are clear.

Does everyone use Vactra #2 in the apron?

To get back to the original question about the headstock. Not too much sludge in the bottom. Used a 'turkey baster' to suck up pooling kerosene and then dried everything up with paper toweling held with some 12" hemostats ($5 @HF).
The headstock cover does need some type of sealant.
I used Permatex #2 for the sight glass and agree with Harry; what a mess, and have ordered some Loctite 515.
I have 2 gallons of DTE Heavy Medium in the headstock and it looks like it needs another 1/2 gallon.

Mike

Reeltor said:

...
I used Permatex #2 for the sight glass and agree with Harry; what a mess, and have ordered some Loctite 515. ...

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Mike,

If you would like to try the BUNA O-rings, let me know and I'll send you a set. (I had to buy a bag of 50 from McM, so I have plenty.) They seal up great without any kind of sealer.

Cal

O-Rings

Cal Haines said:

Mike,

If you would like to try the BUNA O-rings, let me know and I'll send you a set. (I had to buy a bag of 50 from McM, so I have plenty.) They seal up great without any kind of sealer.

Cal

Click to expand...

Cal,

Thanks for the offer, I do need to clean the sight glass on the apron. I''ll PM my address.

Mike

The pump is under the cover on the left side of the apron. The pump can be a bit of a chore to get out. A Gits cover goes in the hole.
Harry

I realize this is a very old thread but I was doing the same task and found that the watch case opener from HF worked perfectly for me. There was a smaller pin size included that worked the best. I didn't have anything on hand to make a tool.