Resurrecting 1960 10EE with 460V Sabina drive

Thanks Rob.
Pondering best solution.
One thing from above - not quite sure I followed the explanation on 24V & 208V.
Specifically: If the contactor runs on 24V, and I put an EMO and the overheat switches in line with it, then that entire loop would be on 24V. I prefer this to running it all on 208 (I think).
If I run the contactors coil off of 208V - then this loop will need to be all 208.

Suspect I did not quite understand your explanation very well?

I would have thought that a 24V loop that has the EMO and overheat switches in it - that is interrupted by either a push of the button or one of the overheat sensors opening - would be the simple solution to a good Saftey and cut off?

I think for you to do a 24v transformer it could not be powered by the large transformer you are turning on & off with the contactor. When the big xfmr is off there would be no power to the 24v one. So the 24v would need a different power source. You could not use 24v off the machine for example.
But to use a line voltage (208) it always has power waiting, so no need for a second source, or the parasitic load of the 24v xfmr. On the other hand if the switch wiring ever goes bad you might get a bigger shock....
Yes the loop would be either all 24v or all 208v.

Ok. Got it.

There is a 110 outlet sitting behind the machine. A plug in 24v wall wart could go there and provide power to the contactor. My EMO could serve as the on/off for the contactor (the heat switches put in line as well).

My machine gets use only when I have specific projects. No production. Often 4-5 weeks between being switched on. Would be reasonable to unplug the wall wart if I want to save a bit of energy.

I'm not crazy about 208 powering my EMO for the reason you mention.
Thanks for sticking with me on this as I get up to speed.
Think I can make a nice set up that will cut power to the transformer when not in use - and use only 24V to close the contractor - without too much trouble.

Much appreciated.
-CM