Resurrecting 1960 10EE with 460V Sabina drive

Think I solved it

Lets try these:



*Edit - adding clearer image of name plate. Surprisingly - it is only a 5HP RPC.

charlieman22 said:

Emailed you both - hopefully someone can post with success on here.

Click to expand...

The middle pic I trimmed off the pic of cover. I couldn't quite make it out from pic. But it appears identical to 1st pic of cover.

The last pic of your schematic, I can't quite read the small data plate of rpc. If that's an issue you can send me that as a solo pic.

Inside cover:



Paper print:



Your schematic:



Edit* I couldn't see your pics before I posted. Now I do, lol, anyway. . .

Chuckled - Thanks!

I had to stop reading on Page 4 but if you still need a way around that taper attachment and the slop associated with the current bearing block, Mine uses a different block that mounts at the back of the cross slide to support a "taper attachment" equipped screw, but without a taper attachment. Here are a few photos (and part numbers and prices from Monarch) I think I will make some replacements available to those in the same boat, only out of aluminum or steel.

Bearing bracket: #24320 $706.25 in stock
Cap for above: #24321 $207.00 in stock
Bushing: #AA-521-11 $5.00 in stock (x2)

Todd

I am in need of a taper attachment screw, worn or not, if there's one floating around. mine was destroyed, then "lost" by the P.O. and Monarch want's $1415 for it and a nut.

Also, I have that Logan's uglier brother (1947 model 820) that has been a solid workhorse ! Nothing wrong with a Logan

Desmato said:

I had to stop reading on Page 4...

Click to expand...

Impressed you made it that far...
This one still may sneak its way into interesting at some point.
I have some work to do.

I plan to tackle some fixes - and this the missing taper attachment is one of them.
Thanks for the pics - and solution - appreciated.
I'm trying to figure out how the draw bar sits in relation to that part?

I am in need of a taper attachment screw, worn or not, if there's one floating around. mine was destroyed, then "lost" by the P.O. and Monarch want's $1415 for it and a nut.

Also, I have that Logan's uglier brother (1947 model 820) that has been a solid workhorse ! Nothing wrong with a Logan

Click to expand...

.
The Logan is a solid lathe. The 920 I refurbed and let go went to a good home and should provide some joy. But have to say, I recently cut a bushing that was a press fit into some aluminum cases.
I had a target of .004" of interference for the fit - and I was able to sneak up on it with the 10EE so close - If I missed, I'm not good enough to measure what that miss was.

Kind of blown away - given my experience/skill level.

Repairing Tailstock Locking Handle

One of the small but annoying items I wanted to find a replacement for was the tailstock locking handle.


Then - when I was cleaning up the tools - I came across the broken off knob.
Seems promising.


Now trying to determine what metal chemistry I am working with.
Looks cast to me (see below).
Would prefer not to have to spark test it.
Suspect gray cast iron - but thought I would post here to see if anyone had some information/insights.
Thanks in advance.
-CM

Definitely "cast" iron of some variety. Whether it is gray, ductile, or malleable is hard to say. I think the only sensible option to repair (reattach) the original knob is to braze it.

Thanks for jumping in rakort.
Agreed and most likely a TIG braze - though haven't written off a nickel rod weld for strength.
This is a bit of a tough one - that break is right at the focal point of the forces when the handle is pulled - and the handle necks down to that thin spot.
Will sleep on this one a few days before I make any moves.

The broken lever looks big enough to drill and tap for something like a 10-32 screw or even just a 3/32 or 1/8" dowel pin. Mainly to hold it together while you braze or weld it. Either Ni-rod or brass will be fine, use whichever you are more comfortable with.
Sounds like you are making great progress on your "new" machine.

The broken lever looks big enough to drill and tap for something like a 10-32 screw or even just a 3/32 or 1/8" dowel pin. Mainly to hold it together while you braze or weld it. Either Ni-rod or brass will be fine, use whichever you are more comfortable with.
Sounds like you are making great progress on your "new" machine.

Click to expand...

Good thought on the pin. Love this forum.
My fear of brazing is that if it's not strong enough to take a beating - which this knob does - it will just break - and I will be married to what ever I brazed with.
Pin + braze might be the trick.
Would also position everything for me to do the work - which isn't insignificant.
Will research a bit more and ponder before I tackle - but appreciate the two suggestions y'all threw in.
-CM

charlieman22 said:

...

Then - when I was cleaning up the tools - I came across the broken off knob.
Seems promising.

...

Click to expand...

Based on the evidence of grinding near the break, it looks as if it's already been repaired and failed once before.

The problem with tying to pin the two halves together prior to welding/brazing is how to you align the two holes? I think you would need some sort of clever fixture for that.

Cal

Cal - good eye.
Yup - paint and material have been ground back.
The weird thing is - there is no evidence of braze or weld attempt.
Good point on the pin.
Work demands my time until the weekend.
Plan to let it percolate until then.
Thanks for the input.

Gentlemen;
Been some time...
Last left off - I had missed on a very broken taper attachment from Ebay.
There was some discussion on options to secure my cross slide/ without a TA - and a strong vote to create a holding mechanism that didn't require modifying the original x-slide.
I decided to hold on the repairs/ flush and lubricate/ utilize the machine as is.

Had a project that held priority - and required the use of the 10ee.
Some precision was required to fabricate some press in bearing adapters and bushing (both bronze and aluminum) - so made due with the machine as it was.
Great experience.

Not going to set any land speed records for completion - but found I was able to hold what I considered super tight tolerances - sometimes by just creeping up on my final cut.

Nothing like an actual project to learn the machine.
Sabina drive doing it's job remarkably - with my undersized RPC and up conversion to 460V.
Have taken to turning the speed down before starting up - just less load on the system.
If I have it up at 1000+RPM and flip it on - you can just feel the strain.
No reason to push my luck.

Reason for this post:
Woke up this morning, brewed a cup of coffee, and opened emails.
Ebay: 10EE taper attachment for sale - was top of list from 3:27am.
Get these pretty frequently.
Almost never an actual taper attachment when I click on the link.
Until this morning.
$550 - buy now.
Pulled trigger on the spot.

Appears I have my TA.
It's missing the clamp and the rod - and cover of course -so on the outlook for those.
But pleased to have found the original parts - and hope not to be surprised that it's not the correct one.
Some pics below if anyone can help me identify.
They come up so rarely - didn't feel I could wait.
Am sure I would find a home for it - if I've missed - though I would be disappointed.

Oh - and Cal - this is my serial #: 44363 We talked about adding it to the description of my thread. Many thanks.

-CM

Sure looks just like my 10EE attachment. WHAT A SCORE!

I had to fabricate a clamp for one of my 10EEs. No big deal.

Karl - you get some credit on this one.
Pretty sure when I first started posting - you noted how much these things can go for - and how rare they were to show up.
I almost did a spit take - ad said - "really needs cleaning, but gears move smoothly and sight glass is still clear and un-broken."
I was pounding away on the buy now button.

Buy now. Buy now. Buy now!!
(little chuckle when I typed that).

Bottom line - yes - was super pleased when I saw it.
Thanks for noting: appears to be true 10EE off take.

Thermite;
Saw those ones from Vet Bob.
They look remarkable in the photos.
Rod looks straight forward enough.
Clamp as well really.
I see someone supplied some shop drawings as well.
Need to get my eye on it/ see one in use/ so I can better understand how they function.
The clamp and rod otherwise seem straight forward enough.

That said - I will keep my eyes pealed for a clamp.
I'd love to bring this one back to it's original standing if opportunity arises.

Favorite machine to work on.

You did WAY better than me.

I watched eBay for a year for my Leblond servo shift taper attachment. Scored one with a major broken part for $1000. here's a thread showing the fabrication and installation work.

15" LeBlond taper attachment | The Hobby-Machinist


When I started watching for a second 10EE, I only went for ones with tooling and a taper attachment. Did not want to go down that rabbit hole again. BUT, this one had a dead drive. had to install an all motor and VFD. But she runs like new!

Karl

Karl_T said:

You did WAY better than me.

I watched eBay for a year for my Leblond servo shift taper attachment. Scored one with a major broken part for $1000. here's a thread showing the fabrication and installation work.

15" LeBlond taper attachment | The Hobby-Machinist


When I started watching for a second 10EE, I only went for ones with tooling and a taper attachment. Did not want to go down that rabbit hole again. BUT, this one had a dead drive. had to install an all motor and VFD. But she runs like new!

Karl

Click to expand...

Love it.
Feeling quite lucky on this one to be sure.

...The clamp has no FUNCTIONAL need of being lordotic art-deco curvy like a fine woman's "low-slung French ass", so ignorant rectangular stock can do the job.

Click to expand...

Belly laugh.
Noted.

Every once in a while - a blind squirrel finds a nut.
Will fabricate something to tide me over and go back on the hunt - in case anything lordotic comes along.

Thanks guys.

The bottom ledge that breaks off of the clamp so easy could be a separate part attached with a couple shear pins or brass bolts that will break. Shear pins are easier to change.
Some playing with load or some calculation of how much holding pressure it needs before it breaks.
Mine is broke and I intend to mill the remains of the ledge off and add a repair piece on.
Monarch must have sold thousands of those. It does need to break rather than damage the apron.

Gentlemen,
Hope this finds the crowd doing well.
Here, project got a little sidetracked...

Change of direction had me focused on prepping and selling of long time family home.
Mammoth effort which included fabrication of double swing powered driveway and pedestrian gates.
Pic. below to give sense of scale.

10EE was a work horse!
350lb gate leaves now swing silently on my custom hinges.
(leaves were a bear to move and mount),
They can burry me with my 10EE when I die - because that's when I plan to let go of it.
(tho perhaps the wife will sell off the taper attachment if kindly requested ).

But this post is not about dying or selling my taper attachment.
In order to keep my machines - while renting a house for the next year - I've fulfilled a longtime wish:
Namely - renting of a light industrial space to build a workshop.

1500 sq ft shop.
Sining lease next week.
Space comes with "208 3 phase".
Now have to rethink how I power my 460V system.

Existing config with RPC and reversed step down converter is on this page further up.
Seeking insights for taking 208 3 phase to 460.
Wouldn't miss the sound of magnetic forces fighting of the RPC startup...
Thanks.
-CM (Ned)

Internal frames

Tigged

Clad with wood both sides/ finished/Sold

New Space

Breaker service


Existing wiring diagram for reference (220 single phase garage set up)