Ack. So that component replaced the old Westinghouse S01DA12AC component? I already ordered the only one on ebay. Fortunately it wasn't too expensive. I'll go with an MOV instead though. How do I correctly size an MOV? Specs say that I should see 115VAC across the rails the MOV would be on.
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Gorton 1-22 mill finds a new home
- Thread starter Jeremy
- Start date
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What wattage resistor would be a good replacement for these? Have three, two 10k ohm, and one 820 ohm. Ohmite 63481-22 DR. Ceramic, body is 1" long.
Mouser has an Ohmite 10K ohm 10W resistor available. Pulled up info on that component and the 40 series is almost 2" long, so I'm thinking this is probably a 5W component.
Mouser has an Ohmite 10K ohm 10W resistor available. Pulled up info on that component and the 40 series is almost 2" long, so I'm thinking this is probably a 5W component.
Plugging away at the PCB as I have time. I'm down to cross-referencing parts with modern equivalents.
The schematic calls out a total of six IN540 diodes, but the board currently has a mix of PT540 and NTE5804 parts. What should I use as a modern replacement?
You can see them in the picture (the NTE5804's together towards the top, the PT540's paired and spread around with clear tubing).
The schematic calls out a total of six IN540 diodes, but the board currently has a mix of PT540 and NTE5804 parts. What should I use as a modern replacement?
You can see them in the picture (the NTE5804's together towards the top, the PT540's paired and spread around with clear tubing).
I've ordered a bunch of parts from both Mouser and Digikey. One concern is the capacitors. I'm matching the specs, but the new caps have a diameter about the size of a pencil and are 1/2" long. Has capacitor technology really advance that much? Just worried that even though the specs look ok, I'm undersizing the components.
Max voltage in circuit board is 115V. Cap in question is .22mfd 400v, old Sangamo. Axial leads. 1-3/8" X 1/2". New cap is .22mfd 200v. 3/8"X3/16".
The one I bought: UVK2DR22MED1TD Nichicon | 493-12632-1-ND | DigiKey
I'm just surprised at the difference in physical size.
Can't upload to my photogallery right now, or I'd post a comparative picture.
The one I bought: UVK2DR22MED1TD Nichicon | 493-12632-1-ND | DigiKey
I'm just surprised at the difference in physical size.
Can't upload to my photogallery right now, or I'd post a comparative picture.
Mike C.
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2004
- Location
- Birmingham, AL
Mouser has some other caps, Cornel Dubilier brand, metallized polyester film, .22mfd, 400V DC. Would those be a better option? Don't appear to be polarized. Would such a cap not handle *any* AC power at all?
Data sheet: http://www.cde.com/catalogs/150.pdf
Data sheet: http://www.cde.com/catalogs/150.pdf
A customer of mine happens to be an electronics nut...more so than I. When I showed him the board, he sat down and checked a number of the components last week and said that most of them test good but recommended replacing the caps and a few other items.
Installed the new components and gave it a test. No more blown fuses and a relay that didn't trip before does now. Progress...but still no movement from the feed motors. Too cold in the shop to do any troubleshooting tonight. Manual lists what voltages should be where, so hope to start probing voltages tomorrow.
It's unknown if the off-board SCR is good or not. Found a write-up on testing it via google. Will check tomorrow.
Installed the new components and gave it a test. No more blown fuses and a relay that didn't trip before does now. Progress...but still no movement from the feed motors. Too cold in the shop to do any troubleshooting tonight. Manual lists what voltages should be where, so hope to start probing voltages tomorrow.
It's unknown if the off-board SCR is good or not. Found a write-up on testing it via google. Will check tomorrow.
Fired up the wood stove in the shop and set to work.
Hooking up a DVM to the anode on the SCR shows that it is indeed tracking the feed speed potentiometer, so that's a good sign (varies from 0 to 55VDC, but isn't linear across the entire potentiometer sweep). Troubleshooting info in the manual says I should see 75VDC across terminals 2 and 4. I don't, but looking at it, there's nothing on the board actually connected to terminal 4. There is an off-board wire from the primary header strip in the cabinet connected to terminal 4, but nothing on the board itself. Curious if there is a jumper wire missing.
I'm beginning to suspect that the schematic doesn't actually match this milling machine. There is a terminal 3 that is electrically connected via a large circuit trace to terminal 2, but doesn't show up on the schematic at all.
Hooking up a DVM to the anode on the SCR shows that it is indeed tracking the feed speed potentiometer, so that's a good sign (varies from 0 to 55VDC, but isn't linear across the entire potentiometer sweep). Troubleshooting info in the manual says I should see 75VDC across terminals 2 and 4. I don't, but looking at it, there's nothing on the board actually connected to terminal 4. There is an off-board wire from the primary header strip in the cabinet connected to terminal 4, but nothing on the board itself. Curious if there is a jumper wire missing.
I'm beginning to suspect that the schematic doesn't actually match this milling machine. There is a terminal 3 that is electrically connected via a large circuit trace to terminal 2, but doesn't show up on the schematic at all.
Started tracing the circuit from the other direction as you said and was seeing over 32k ohm where it should have been zero. Tracing wires, looks like the resistance was backfeeding through another relay. Used the DVM as impedance protection and ran a jumper off the SCR anode connection back to terminal #4. Didn't get any nasty sparks, so decided to risk doing a straight jumper between the anode and terminal #4. The motors both work! Speeds track the potentiometer from zero to full scale perfectly.
I now have fully functioning spindle and cross feeds!
Along with the other obvious modifications someone has done to this poor mill, it would appear they left a jumper wire off completely.
I now have fully functioning spindle and cross feeds!
Along with the other obvious modifications someone has done to this poor mill, it would appear they left a jumper wire off completely.
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RCPDesigns
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2014
- Location
- Atlanta GA.
So 8 years later... how do you like the Gorton? I'm looking at a similar one right now.
BugRobotics
Stainless
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2015
- Location
- Denver, CO
Gorton made wonderful machines. I own a 1970's vintage I-22 and it's an excellent heavy duty manual rig capable of tight work and excellent surface finishes.
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dalmatiangirl61
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2011
- Location
- BFE Nevada/San Marcos Tx
I picked one up a few years ago, so far I like it. Knee elevation motor was toast, just need to find the time to finish the modification to refit a newer motor. Wish it had a riser block.
reggie_obe
Titanium
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2004
- Location
- Reddington, N.J., U.S.A.
Jeremy was last seen in Dec of 2020.
Groove
Plastic
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2022
I just bought a 1957 Gorton Mastermill 1-22 a few weeks ago. Just finished setting up the new 3 phase conversion to single phase using the static phase converter approach mostly due to space and money. Now that it is running I need to go thru the oil grease and lubrication study and do my alignment set up so havn't done anything with it yet but a very nice machine. I think mine has the B&S #9 setup but I am not sure how to confirm what it has exactly? Maybe there is a spec on it I can use but I haven't seen one yet. The collets don't have anythig stamped on them but maybe so I might have to use some measurements if I can find the specs.
