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Stones for machinists...

BadDog

Stainless
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Not sure how this compares, but I was given a "Lansky" set (knife sharpening with angle rods and such) as a gift years ago. Never used it till recently as I use a more typical ozark stone along with steel, ceramic, and leather strop. Then I found the stones work quite nicely for touching up and finishing lathe bits and the little plastic handle thingies are quite handy...
 

eKretz

Diamond; Mod Squad
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
Paul, for toolbit touchup work, use a fine or medium EZLap. They're all diamond grit electro-bonded to a steel backing plate, then stuck to a plastic handle. These are meant to be used dry or with water as a lubricant. And your memory serves you well, they are the ones with different color handles, color-coded to grit size.
 

Erikaf

Plastic
Joined
May 22, 2006
Location
San Diego, Cal.
True there are a lot of stones out there. Each one is for a different job. There are a few things that you have to think about when you select stones. Do you want a hard stone or soft stone. Do you want to cut or polish. Do you want to shape or sharpen. Do you want to blend or to be very accurate. Hard stones keep their shape longer but generaly cut slower. Soft stones cut faster but wear faster, so if you need to keep a flat surface these are not your first choice.
Some people like water stones, I don't find them of much use. They are soft, wear fast and can be messy. Don't waste you time or $$ on the kit. Wait until you know what you like. I don't use a stone to deburr, unless it's hard material, a good set of files gives better control. As far as touching up a mill table you shouldn't have to do that very often. If you find yourself doing it more then once a year then you need to look at the way you are working. Everytime you touch a stone to the table you are altering the flatness of the table. If you always have dings and dents then use some sort of table guard and clean off the chips before putting on a vise or part.
Off hand I think the best types of stones for someone that doesn't use them a lot are the dianond; stick, rod and mounted type and/or ceramic. They cut fast, hold their shape and last a long time. They come in many grits. Then slowly try out the other stones and make your own choice later acording to the work you do.
 

ReyTres

Plastic
Joined
Dec 21, 2022
I have the exact same stone Ferrous mentioned. Very handy. I actually possess two of that size, both dual grit. One has a side for ferrous and a side for non-ferrous metals, and the other is both sides for ferrous metals with a 1/2" radius finger groove all around the o.d. Both stones are approx. 4" diameter x 1 1/4" high. I also have a large assortment of misc. small stones; oval, round, triangular, square, rectangular, etc. along with a few diamond Eze-Laps.
 

ReyTres

Plastic
Joined
Dec 21, 2022
Hey I have a question about your comment regarding stones for ferrous and non-ferrous metals.

why have you chosen to separate stones for those metals?

Thanks
 

eKretz

Diamond; Mod Squad
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
Hey I have a question about your comment regarding stones for ferrous and non-ferrous metals.

why have you chosen to separate stones for those metals?

Thanks

Silicon carbide (crystolon, usually a shade of black, gray or green in color) works better for non-ferrous, doesn't load up as easily and sheds grit when it gets dull or packed up. Aluminum oxide (India, generally orange in color) doesn't shed grit nearly as much and hone loading generally isn't a big problem on steel unless you're stoning soft steel.

Certain times, you don't want to cross contaminate stones or materials either. It can cause stainless steel to rust for instance, or welding defects in aluminum.
 








 
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