Overland
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2017
- Location
- Greenville, SC
Interesting, thanks.
I'm wondering why he didn't reverse his jaws, then the part would sit on the flat surface.
May those jaws don't reverse.
Bob
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Looking for 7" dia thick wall steel tube for bearing housing
- Thread starter Overland
- Start date
- Replies 51
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Interesting, thanks.
I'm wondering why he didn't reverse his jaws, then the part would sit on the flat surface.
May those jaws don't reverse.
Bob
Rob F.
Diamond
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2012
- Location
- California, Central Coast
Have you used a lathe before?
Overland
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2017
- Location
- Greenville, SC
You can be such a jerk !
I'm not trying to be a jerk- I'm countering your utterly dismissive attitude like this is a walk in the park and you've done it 100 times and yet every response you give and question you ask suggests you have never done any of this stuff before.
I have done these jobs 100's of times. I have learned the hard way that the way you think you can do it will not result in a usable part. If you make a hub for taper bearings and the bores are not accurately inline the end user will have a huge mess on their hands.
Listen, or don't. Doesn't fucking matter to me.
Milland
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2006
- Location
- Hillsboro, New Hampshire
I agree, but it's already a lost cause with the buyer doing post-machining welding on this housing. It's now a matter of doing one's best, then if needed trying to bail the customer out after the fact with a sleeve and rebore.
Sucks, but the guy with the money is always right. Right?
I know what you mean. I've done some parts where they had to be welded after machining and the distortion wasn't bad because the materials were extra thick. Kinda sounds like the OP's situation here.
I've also seen a bunch of stuff made where the bores weren't aligned properly to begin with and it led to spindles fracturing from fatigue, races spinning the hubs, alignment issues and more.
It's the "Oh it's not a problem, I know exactly what I'm doing" totally dismissive attitude followed with comments that show a complete lack of understanding.
Overland
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2017
- Location
- Greenville, SC
The comment I wrote in my post #29:
"I have a Set-Tru chuck, so was thinking maybe face & turn OD one end on all 4 pieces, then flip, dial in, turn other OD, then maybe bore both bearing bores on this setting, with a smaller dia, in the center for the bearings to seat against."
I just did a small test on my lathe. Indicator against face of jaw, then carriage wound in to zero indicator on each jaw. The photos show the reading on the 3 jaw faces.
Once again, I appreciate the constructive comments.
Bob
"I have a Set-Tru chuck, so was thinking maybe face & turn OD one end on all 4 pieces, then flip, dial in, turn other OD, then maybe bore both bearing bores on this setting, with a smaller dia, in the center for the bearings to seat against."
I just did a small test on my lathe. Indicator against face of jaw, then carriage wound in to zero indicator on each jaw. The photos show the reading on the 3 jaw faces.
Once again, I appreciate the constructive comments.
Bob
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Milland
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2006
- Location
- Hillsboro, New Hampshire
Watch it, you're gonna lose points for using a Last Word indicator...
Overland
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2017
- Location
- Greenville, SC
Milland
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2006
- Location
- Hillsboro, New Hampshire
Huh - doesn't seem like 1" wall there. Is what you're making going to mate to that, or replace it?
Overland
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2017
- Location
- Greenville, SC
Just an example of what he's doing.
The ones I'm doing have 115 mm bearing bore, and 171 mm overall dia, so just over a 1" wall thickness. Some form of "skid-steer" style drive.
Bob
The ones I'm doing have 115 mm bearing bore, and 171 mm overall dia, so just over a 1" wall thickness. Some form of "skid-steer" style drive.
Bob