Drum switch wiring for a split phase 110V Dayton motor

I purchased a Dayton Model 5K283BE 1/2 hp split phase motor for my SB 9A lathe. I needed to replace the old drum switch and purchased a Relay and Control Corp model RS-1A reversing drum switch from McMaster-Carr.
I have looked through many of the threads here and can't seem to understand why some wiring diagrams will show switch terminals #3 and #5 with a jumper and others do not. I think I understand how to wire the switch to the motor, but the jumper question has me stumped.
Why does #3 and #5 need a jumper?

These images are of my motor and switch.

I tried placing a jumper between the #3 and #5 switch terminals. That didn't work. Prior to this I wired up the switch according to the diagram inside the switch cover. It would run for about 5 seconds and then trip the surge protector. I took the start circuit wires out of the switch (switch terminals #3 and #4) and reattached the red and black wires to their original posts on the motor. The motor works just fine with the switch, but of course it will not run it in reverse.

I can live with this, but I would still like to figure out why I could not get it to work with the start circuit wired to the switch. I assume you are supposed to run extensions from the red and black wires from the motor to the switch posts...

first of all you need to choose the diagram for the motor that you intend to use and how it connects in F and R
your motor is labeled split phase, so use the diagram labeled split phase
the switch is :: 1 and 2 always connect whether F or R
5 and 6 always connect whether F or R
in F:: 3 connects to 1 and 2
4 connects to 5 and 6
in R:: 4 connects to 1 and 2
3 connects to 5 and 6
this means that switch terms 3 and 4 alternate between their available connections
in other words between hot and neutral in this case

you can see that there are two windings in that motor and that you will only be reversing one winding
next you need to understand that you want the switch to do the reversing of the motor
that requires 4 wires from the motor to the switch
2 from the motor red and black wires, to the switch
2 from the motor terminals 1 and 4, to the switch which are hot and neutral
(this assumes that motor terms 4 and 5 are connected internally; if not it wont work)
all 4 must land on the corresponding switch points that will swap their connections
plus ground .... so you need a total of 5 conductors
you can either buy 5 conductor SO cord, or two pieces of 3 conductor
or use 1/2" flex with connectors and AWG14 or larger THHN wire

you will have to combine what you know about the operation of the switch
and the instructions on the motor tag for reversing the motor
you can only reverse the red and black wires so disconnect them from the motor terminals and extend them to the switch terminals

do not move any other wires on the motor connections
use the switch to swap the red and black wires between motor terminals 1 and 4

to connect the switch ::motor hot supply T1 to Switch terminal 1
120V hot to S2
motor red wire to S3
motor blk wire to S4
motor neutral supply T4 to S5
120V neutral to S6

electricity is really simple , it just needs a completed circle to get back where it came from
manipulating electricity is not always that simple lol
when you reverse the motor you reverse where the electricity begins going thru one winding of the motor and then exiting that winding (technically it is more complicated than that)

Melchizidek said:

I tried placing a jumper between the #3 and #5 switch terminals. That didn't work. Prior to this I wired up the switch according to the diagram inside the switch cover. It would run for about 5 seconds and then trip the surge protector. I took the start circuit wires out of the switch (switch terminals #3 and #4) and reattached the red and black wires to their original posts on the motor. The motor works just fine with the switch, but of course it will not run it in reverse.

I can live with this, but I would still like to figure out why I could not get it to work with the start circuit wired to the switch. I assume you are supposed to run extensions from the red and black wires from the motor to the switch posts...

Click to expand...

Hello Mel,
Please review the below sketch - note that your surge protector was tripping due to the bypassing of the start switch in the motor - the below layout will allow you to hook up and run the motor - if the switch position is not the way you wish - reverse the connections of wire red / black ( Drum switch 3/4 to flip ) - this setup will allow the start winding to disconnect correctly - you need 5 wires to motor for control + 1 ground ( Yellow highlight is the start switch)

My regards,
Bill

Melchizidek said:

I purchased a Dayton Model 5K283BE 1/2 hp split phase motor for my SB 9A lathe. I needed to replace the old drum switch and purchased a Relay and Control Corp model RS-1A reversing drum switch from McMaster-Carr.
I have looked through many of the threads here and can't seem to understand why some wiring diagrams will show switch terminals #3 and #5 with a jumper and others do not. I think I understand how to wire the switch to the motor, but the jumper question has me stumped.
Why does #3 and #5 need a jumper?

Click to expand...

Hi Mel,
Issue with the surge protector is due to bypassing the start switch in the motor - the below schematic will work on your setup. if the rotation and the switch handle position are not as you wish, swap wires 3 & 4 on the switch to flip the relationship ( Follow the colored arrows to see the flow in the coils, which control the rotation direction)

regards,
Bill