Oil Filter for #3

Looking to replace the cuno oil filter on my #3 with a spin
on disposable unit like a remote oil filter on a car.

Any suggestions?

Other than a unit that would function at 150 psi, what should I be looking for?

Thanks in advance.

Chuck
Burbank, CA

When I added an inline filter to the headstock of my big Springfield, I found an inline one meant for things like tractor hydraulics, on eBay. It was a simple screw-on holder, with 1/2" NPT in and out, and as I recall, the filter was one common to things like Kubota, John Deere, and other small machines.

Later, I found one on McMaster that's pretty much the same thing, and had intended to put that on my No.2 in place of the disc-strainer, but really, said strainer has worked for eighty-plus years, why swap it?

Doc.

With 150 psi any automotive metal canister filter will be blown off the base quickly! Have seen this multiple times when starting automotive engines in 20F or lower and the pressure relief valve sticks. Makes quite a mess!

Make sure you get one pressure rated for at least 150psi.
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Thanks for the replies.

Doc, because the original cuno strainer is something like 60 years old, I'm not sure it is up to snuff.

Any idea what micron size would be optimum for a W/S #3?

Thanks!

Chuck

clubairth said:

With 150 psi any automotive metal canister filter will be blown off the base quickly!

Click to expand...

-Where are you getting 150 PSI? The mmanual for my #2 says the operating pressure needs to be between 25 and 35 psi, and according to the actual gauge, it's typically about 22 psi.

Doc, because the original cuno strainer is something like 60 years old, I'm not sure it is up to snuff.

Click to expand...

-Mine's eighty three and doing fine.

When I cleaned it out, and I'd bet a paycheck it hadn't been cleaned in 30 to 40 years, all I found was little more than a small wad of lint, which I took to be fiber from the one organic-lined clutch.

Any idea what micron size would be optimum for a W/S #3?

Click to expand...

-Keep in mind a lathe headstock doesn't produce combustion contaminants like a car engine does. The only time you're going to get any debris in the system is if one of the bearings or gears starts to fail- and if that's the case, it's already too late.

The strainer on mine, if I can read the faded tag properly, indicates there's a .0035" gap between the plates. I'd say pretty much any proper paper filter is going to be finer than that. But personally, I wouldn't go too overboard in trying to find a super-fine filter, as too much restriction could starve the system, and possibly cause the damage you're trying to prevent.

One of these, in 20 micron, would likely be more than enough.

Doc.

Thanks Doc.

My #3 runs between 20 and 30 psi.

Chuck
Burbank, CA

i took my cuno filter apart to clean it and see if it all looks good.. that is a very expensive filtration system if you were to replace it with a similar one.. my filter says .0035 which should be more than enough considering they are the stock filter systems still working on all our 60/70/80 year old machines.. and a lot on 20/30/40 year old headstock oil. that should be testament to just how well they work.. but thats just my 2 cents and im a noob when it comes to this..

Contact a filter supplier,they have universal bases for spin ons.........you can also get spin ons that handle thousands of pounds pressure for hydraulic systems ,if required...........in my recollection,car oil filters are supposed to withstand 300psi test pressure ,although the cheapies sometimes have scores on the shell that fail.................I would be inclined to add some powerful magnet filters in the system,as all the contamination would be steel particles.......Most truck hydraulics have a stick of magnets in the oil tank,and it always has a black smudge of wear particles,despite having spin on filters in the sytem.