Model K16...new apron worm gear AND what is this 4th shaft in the apron for??

In the process of cleaning up the apron. Ordered a new brass worm gear.



There is a set of grooved/textured/knurled 'rings' on the left side (indicated with the arrow). A shaft that runs the length of the bed passes through them. The shaft is smooth with 2 keyways 180 degrees apart running the length of the shaft. I figured I would just rewatch the applicable Keith Rucker Model K apron videos but Keith's Model K doesn't have this shaft??



I could wait until I reassemble everything to figure out what it does...or I can ask you guys! I would guess those 'rings' or whatever they should be called should rotate; maybe function as a nut/locknet to set some kind of spacing? Otherwise why would Monarch go through the trouble of giving them texture? I've tried channel locks (protecting the rings with cardboard but they didn't budge).

The shaft is operated by the top most lever on the right side of the apron. (Arrow)


The applicable lever rotates this inner shaft which is cut away on one side.



The shaft rides in this holder to the right of the gear box.


In other news I was able to clean up the apron without a major disassembly. I'm going to pull the saddle and clean it up before I reinstall the apron.

It is the lead/feed screw forward/reverse/neutral. The threaded collar is to make a fine adjustment to the feed kick out when it hits the saddle clamp on the reverse rod

Typically known as "leadscrew reverse". An option included on toolroom lathes.

I see the K model operators manual does not show it, but not an overly detailed manual:

The pdf:

Thank you both. I’ll work on getting the threaded collar freed up.

this is the stop on my lathe. You can also get an indexing turret for multiple stop depths.

It looks like your outer one is not original. The outer piece should be around 3" long threaded externally going into the apron. and the inner lock nut is just a lock nut.

The ring and lock ring are now freed up. Thank you for the illustration/picture. It just needed a little more force/different wrench than I was using.

99% done on an apron refresh.



Having an issue getting the cross slide clutch adjusted but I'll figure it out. The outer pieces of the thrust bearings on the outer/handle end of the shaft seem too thick. Not enough 'room' for the engagement lever to 'do its thing' and put tension on the clutch before bumping into the large washer the engagement lever sits against. I'm going to order a thinner thrust bearings. Not sure what else to try. It doesn't look like rocket science. (Note: The shaft/clutch/handle that engages the 'left/right' motion came out good!)

Next I'll get the shafts cleaned up. Power washer first and then a bath in Evaporust. I've become a fan of that stuff.

tx656 said:

99% done on an apron refresh.

View attachment 378849

Having an issue getting the cross slide clutch adjusted but I'll figure it out. The outer pieces of the thrust bearings on the outer/handle end of the shaft seem too thick. Not enough 'room' for the engagement lever to 'do its thing' and put tension on the clutch before bumping into the large washer the engagement lever sits against. I'm going to order a thinner thrust bearings. Not sure what else to try. It doesn't look like rocket science. (Note: The shaft/clutch/handle that engages the 'left/right' motion came out good!)

Next I'll get the shafts cleaned up. Power washer first and then a bath in Evaporust. I've become a fan of that stuff.

Click to expand...

You might want to call monarch. When i replaced all the bearing in my 16 CY apron, the original thrust bearings were no longer available. Monarch designed a simple retrofit kit which, as i recall involved machijing a clearence counter bore in the cone clutch to accomodate the thicker thrust bearings.

I think you might have that worm gear the wrong way around btw... Pretty sure the built in "spacer" goes inboard.

Paint came out nice on the apron.

KT_NorCal said:

I think you might have that worm gear the wrong way around btw... Pretty sure the built in "spacer" goes inboard.

Paint came out nice on the apron.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I'll re-look at pics from taking it apart and check the alignment. Would hate to tear it up given what it cost.

tx656 said:

Thanks for the heads up. I'll re-look at pics from taking it apart and check the alignment. Would hate to tear it up given what it cost.

Click to expand...

No worries, the only reason I knew to comment is I have a used one of those gears sitting on my coffee table at the moment and was looking online for a new one to compare it to and yours was the best picture of one I could find. I'm about 90% sure that the model C and K used the same basic gears, so I'm guessing it should be correct.
I'm not sure how to measure helical gears, but if you do have the gear still accessible could you take some measurements of things like the individual tooth thickness, etc? I'm wondering how worn this spare gear is, but it still engages with no real slop into the worm, so only way I could think to tell is apply a percentage based on what a new tooth thickness might be!

KT

KT_NorCal said:

No worries, the only reason I knew to comment is I have a used one of those gears sitting on my coffee table at the moment and was looking online for a new one to compare it to and yours was the best picture of one I could find. I'm about 90% sure that the model C and K used the same basic gears, so I'm guessing it should be correct.
I'm not sure how to measure helical gears, but if you do have the gear still accessible could you take some measurements of things like the individual tooth thickness, etc? I'm wondering how worn this spare gear is, but it still engages with no real slop into the worm, so only way I could think to tell is apply a percentage based on what a new tooth thickness might be!

KT

Click to expand...

Here you go. These were done one handed (other hand taking pics)...so everything is 'approximate'.