How to oil particular year model 10ee's carriage/cross slide

Don't shoot me, i did search. While there is a good bit of info, there are no specific threads dedicated to models by year on the carriage/cross slide. I have had this lathe for a few years and i think i am doing it correctly, but i am honestly not for certain.

I have a 1963 with 30 inch ways (long wheel base model ). I understand how to get oil in the side of the carriage and i see it in the sight glass, so i know that part is good to go. Up top is where i am not so sure of. Every time i have put oil 'upstairs' on the carriage, its hard to tell if any shows up on the ways. Maybe its clogged up, maybe i am not putting it in the right hole? My research shows that different year models show different locations to put oil upstairs.as to the compound? There is no oil spot that I have found. How do oil that?

I can post a picture of the ole girl and where i put the oil soon as i get home. If anyone wants to show me in a picture where it should go, or of there is a by the years SOP or thread that i missed...i would sure appreciate it. I'd like to keep her in great condition and don't want to mess anything up. In the past when i have not see enough oil i have added it manually to the ways (for those that might have wondered).

Thank you.

The pump in the apron sump should be oiling the ways as well as other things. The compound does not have any automatic oiling but you can hit the ways on it by backing it off until you see the ways and hit that area. Not sure how you might oil the compound screw.

The manual has a fair amount of detail on lubrication. About the only think you need to do on a properly functioning lathe is to make sure the sight glasses show oil and hit the tailstock and ELSR Gits.

Yeah the cross slide is oiled by the apron pump. If you crank the carriage back and forth a bunch and the cross slide ways don't get wet it's not working.

It is annoying how a lot of lathes don't provide an oiling point for the cross slide. I installed gits cups in 1/4" holes on the top of the cross slide above both dovetails. I think 3/32 holes join up to the dovetails and there is a piece of 1/4 round felt 1/2" long right under the oil cups so the oil doesn't just pour out.

The manual that came with the machine was lackluster so I called Monarch and ordered a new one thinking I had missing pages or just a partial manual. The same one came from Monarch when I got it in the mail.

I don’t know what yours says but mine is crap. It is not specific at all.

I was searching today for a company that sells oil spring caps to do just what guythatbrews suggested. Harfington is all I found. Is there any place state side that sells them?

On a square-dial 10EE, the apron pump will operate any time that the feed-rod is turning and the feed-thread plunger is NOT in the middle/threading position; neither the carriage nor cross-slide needs to move. If you run the spindle for a while with the feed-rod turning and don't see oil on the carriage and cross-slide ways, you have some sort of problem with the Bijur oilers. (This is a very common problem.)

I used ball-valve oilers from McMaster-Carr as backups for the carriage wings on my 10EE (link)

mine is an older round dial and still under inspection/restoration but my manual (in the sticky thread) specifically calls for Kerosene flushing of the system

rcn11thacr said:

I was searching today for a company that sells oil spring caps to do just what guythatbrews suggested. Harfington is all I found. Is there any place state side that sells them?

Click to expand...

Search for gits oil cups. Mcmater has a bunch.

Cal Haines said:

On a square-dial 10EE, the apron pump will operate any time that the feed-rod is turning and the feed-thread plunger is NOT in the middle/threading position; neither the carriage nor cross-slide needs to move. If you run the spindle for a while with the feed-rod turning and don't see oil on the carriage and cross-slide ways, you have some sort of problem with the Bijur oilers. (This is a very common problem.)

I used ball-valve oilers from McMaster-Carr as backups for the carriage wings on my 10EE (link)

Click to expand...

I thought the carriage had to move. Thanks for clearing thst up Cal.

rcn11thacr said:

I was searching today for a company that sells oil spring caps to do just what guythatbrews suggested. Harfington is all I found. Is there any place state side that sells them?

Click to expand...

The current gits oil cups (e.g. what Monarch sells) seem pretty poor quality these days. I got some from an ebay seller (resaledetroit) which are NOS at a reasonable price. No affiliation other than a satisfied customer...

IceCzar said:

mine is an older round dial and still under inspection/restoration but my manual (in the sticky thread) specifically calls for Kerosene flushing of the system

Click to expand...

Thanks,
I’ll give that a try before I go about taking the assembly apart.

When you get a "new" 10EE, it's a real good idea to pull the carriage, disassemble the compound, cross-slide and taper attachment. Give everything a good inspection and cleaning. There are hidden pockets that collect gunk and swarf. This is especially true if the machine was used with coolant.