Seeking info on a 10EE, based on one poor photograph

I know, I know, one crappy photo... but I'm not really up on the finer points of 10EE lathes, and it's the only information I've got at this point. It's local, and I'll be seeing it in person soon, so it would be nice to know what I should be researching beforehand. Any information you 10EE experts can glean from this photo would be appreciated! I have read about the different drives, square vs. round dial, ect, but I'm sure a lot of you can point out things on this machine that I've missed.

My understanding is that the later solid-state drives will only run on true 3 phase, which I don't have. Though I guess I could splurge for a Phase Perfect if this machine warrants it.

Thanks,
Andy

Andy FitzGibbon said:

I know, I know, one crappy photo... but I'm not really up on the finer points of 10EE lathes, and it's the only information I've got at this point. It's local, and I'll be seeing it in person soon, so it would be nice to know what I should be researching beforehand. Any information you 10EE experts can glean from this photo would be appreciated! I have read about the different drives, square vs. round dial, ect, but I'm sure a lot of you can point out things on this machine that I've missed.

My understanding is that the later solid-state drives will only run on true 3 phase, which I don't have. Though I guess I could splurge for a Phase Perfect if this machine warrants it.

Thanks,
Andy

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Andy,
Looks like a nice machine going by the paint, possibly repainted?

Looks to be a bare bones, not I/M, no ELSR or taper, hard to tell on the taper…….if the ways are good, it looks like it was well cared for, it would be a very good machine to try and get!

The machine looks to be the last generation of the tube drive machines, from the late sixties until the tube drive was phased out in the eighties, it will run on single phase power if it’s still has the original drive.

Machine is equipped with the larger quill in the tailstock and the single sight glass, definitely late sixties and newer!

The machine doesn’t look like the usual retrofit except for the missing Monarch emblem on the door and the newer sticker.

When you inspect it, take a look at the inside of the front v-way, if it has an edge you can catch your fingernail on or rough surface it will need a rebuild……also look at the crown of the ways, if that is flat, the machine was rebuilt by someone other than Monarch!

Hope you can get it, looks to be a very nice lathe!

Kevin.

bsg said:

Andy,
Looks like a nice machine going by the paint, possibly repainted?

Looks to be a bare bones, not I/M, no ELSR or taper, hard to tell on the taper…….if the ways are good, it looks like it was well cared for, it would be a very good machine to try and get!

The machine looks to be the last generation of the tube drive machines, from the late sixties until the tube drive was phased out in the eighties, it will run on single phase power if it’s still has the original drive.

Machine is equipped with the larger quill in the tailstock and the single sight glass, definitely late sixties and newer!

The machine doesn’t look like the usual retrofit except for the missing Monarch emblem on the door and the newer sticker.

When you inspect it, take a look at the inside of the front v-way, if it has an edge you can catch your fingernail on or rough surface it will need a rebuild……also look at the crown of the ways, if that is flat, the machine was rebuilt by someone other than Monarch!

Hope you can get it, looks to be a very nice lathe!

Kevin.

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Thanks Kevin, that is all very helpful. I suspect it is repainted, as the seller has a Bridgeport that's the same color.

I have an American Rotary phase converter that is supposed to be "CNC capable" and the guy i bought it from was using it to run a CNC. So maybe having true three phase wouldn't be a problem, even if it's a newer solid state drive?

No idea what the asking price is yet, that will go a long way to determining my interest level...

Andy

Andy FitzGibbon said:

Thanks Kevin, that is all very helpful. I suspect it is repainted, as the seller has a Bridgeport that's the same color.

I have an American Rotary phase converter that is supposed to be "CNC capable" and the guy i bought it from was using it to run a CNC. So maybe having true three phase wouldn't be a problem, even if it's a newer solid state drive?

No idea what the asking price is yet, that will go a long way to determining my interest level...

Andy

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The main power switch on the front of the lathe is in the wrong place for a solid state drive from Monarch.
Hopefully it has an unmolested DC tube drive, I would rather have that than a retrofit, and it will run on single phase!

Kevin

The headstock has only one oil sightglass, which means it was built after about 1965. It look like it has a 4000 RPM spindle (based on the tach). No broken handles, etc., which is good. I don't know what's on the end of the spindle; it's too thin to be a chuck. Definitely worth a look.

Cal Haines said:

The headstock has only one oil sightglass, which means it was built after about 1965. It look like it has a 4000 RPM spindle (based on the tach). No broken handles, etc., which is good. I don't know what's on the end of the spindle; it's too thin to be a chuck. Definitely worth a look.

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I think that's a handwheel collet closer, either Sjogren or Jacobs.

bsg said:

The main power switch on the front of the lathe is in the wrong place for a solid state drive from Monarch.
Hopefully it has an unmolested DC tube drive, I would rather have that than a retrofit, and it will run on single phase!

Kevin

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When you say "it will run on single phase", do you mean single phase right to the machine? I'm still working on understanding the different drive options.

Andy FitzGibbon said:

I think that's a handwheel collet closer, either Sjogren or Jacobs.

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Looks like a Jacobs closer…

Andy FitzGibbon said:

When you say "it will run on single phase", do you mean single phase right to the machine? I'm still working on understanding the different drive options.

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Yes, it would only need three phase for the coolant pump, this machine doesn’t have one.

Kevin

Thanks to both of you. This is quite helpful.

Trying to figure out what a reasonable price would be... assuming module drive, average/moderate wear, and the collet chuck is the only tooling. Dealer pricing seems to be all over the map.

Andy

Condition is everything, with that being said, I would be hard pressed to pay more than $5000 unless the ways were perfect, and the machine ran with no problems.

I would think $2500-$3500 range would be more than fair.......the prices seem to be rising on these machines right now watching several Bidspotter auctions.

Kevin

bsg said:

Condition is everything, with that being said, I would be hard pressed to pay more than $5000 unless the ways were perfect, and the machine ran with no problems.

I would think $2500-$3500 range would be more than fair.......the prices seem to be rising on these machines right now watching several Bidspotter auctions.

Kevin

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Probably won't bother if it's not in pretty good shape. I already have too many projects. If it's worn, I would rather skip it and spend a little extra money on a nicer one with more tooling.

Another photo, and the vague information that it "came from a nuclear plant". I think the taper attachment is there, maybe? Can't tell much else.

It looks to be a decent shape, I don't see any of the usual abuse marks (compound corners being bashed by chuck contact, etc.)

Andy FitzGibbon said:

Probably won't bother if it's not in pretty good shape. I already have too many projects. If it's worn, I would rather skip it and spend a little extra money on a nicer one with more tooling.

Another photo, and the vague information that it "came from a nuclear plant". I think the taper attachment is there, maybe? Can't tell much else.

View attachment 382184

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Yes, it does have the taper attachment, a little hard to see because it's covered by the, well, covers.

David

Finally got to look at this machine. Built (rebuilt?) in 2001, and has an AC VFD drive. Could not get inside to see if it has the back gear or not.. Little wear on the bed, when tested by running an indicator on the tailstock way while moving the carriage. No appreciable spindle runout, and no signs of abuse. Paint job appears to be original. Cross slide screw has a ton of lash, which seems like it most mostly be an adjustment issue as everything else is relatively unworn. Some minimal tooling included. Hard to get photos because its shoehorned in amongst a bunch of other machinery.

It's at a surplus reseller, so I'm not sure that powering it up would be an easy option. Asking price is $9k.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,
Andy

Now that you have s/n info maybe call Monarch and ask what the "level" of the rebuild was.

My S/N book only shows s/n's to end of 1972. Last s/n for 1972 was #51036. So guessing born in 1973 or 74-ish?

$9000 seems a little high from my view. Esp since it can't even be demonstrated.

It is rebuilt. Monarch puts an "R" after the (original) serial number when they do the rebuild. My 10EE s/n 51929 was built in 1977, to give you an idea of the original build date on this lathe.

David

If the way’s are in excellent shape, I would say it’s not a bad price considering the crappy machines that go for half that and still need a ton of work, plus it has some tooling and a travel dial!

The machine will have a back gear, it has a Monarch rebuild with the 7.5 hp drive.

If you can afford it, the machine is probably well worth it considering the cost of a rebuild from Monarch!

Kevin

And it has the taper attachment bed clamp, a big plus and practically unheard of.

David

Thanks for all the replies, guys. Very helpful.

It's possible there is more tooling floating around in that bin. So far I've found the Jacobs Rubberflex chuck that was on the lathe, a Sjogren chuck (looks like 5C), a four jaw with both sets of jaws, the TA bed clamp, a BXA tool post with some holders, along with a few other odds and ends. Not sure if the Trav-A-Dial was actually on the lathe, but it'll probably be included.

The bed seemed pretty good... I got about .0008 deflection with the indicator on the tailstock way when moving the carriage up to the chuck. I know that's not a precise measurement, but combined with the lack of visible wear/damage to the way surfaces it makes me think the lathe has potential. I'm sure it would be more than accurate enough for my needs. The spindle has no discernable run out and feels smooth, though powering it up would be the ultimate test of that.

The huge amount of backlash in the cross slide handle makes me think that parts must be loose inside. I can't see the screw and nut being so much more worn than everything else on the machine. Unless they did a massive amount of powered facing with no lubrication to the screw.

I'm going to call Monarch on Monday to see what they can tell me. I can't see paying anywhere close to the asking price without being able to wire it up and at least confirm that everything works. That may be possible... we'll see what they have to say.

Anyone know if that VFD can be switched to run on 230 volts? I don't have 460 in my shop, just standard 230 household power and an American Rotary converter.

Thanks again,
Andy

Very few vfd's are dual voltage. Talk to scott at Monarch, he can probably tell you everything you want to know about that machine.