Cal Haines

Hello Cal,
I have been looking for info on monarch lathes and trying to get power to the one I have recently aquired. There was definitely some shoddy workmanship that went into the wiring and I would like to sort it all out without any damage.
The matchine is as follows
Mod Monarch 10EE Toolmaker
S/N 49584
Any information for powering this machine up would be appreciated.

Some pictures in the link
Andrew Perry's Library | Photobucket

Thanks Cal...the opposing pickle forks is pretty old school, and I am not sure that the new kids would even think that way.

Lee (the saw guy)

Hello Cal. I don't know if you have seen my last post back to you or not yet, but meanwhile I followed your diagrams and made sure my wires were matching your diagrams from your revised posting. I am the one that is having contactor issues on my 10" EE. It just buzzes and doesn't even try to engage. It has been running for 25 years other than 4 years ago I had to have the motor rewound and she purred like a kitten after that again until now. I found that my "wild" leg was running on L3 (and has been all these years) but I changed it like your diagram stated it should be. Still, I just get a buzzing noise. The little lever that has a spring on it on the contactor that is suppose to get pulled over so that the magnets can connect to engage the contacts just vibrates and no other action even attempts to happen. Can you suggest anything further? I appreciate your assistance. Thanks, Don

Hello Cal,
You seem to be very knowledgeable on the Monarch 10EE with the older DC motor generator set up. I work for the Navel Research Laboratory here in DC and have the privilege of taking responsibility of a 1954 machine that I swear has few hours of real operation on it, there is dried cosmoline on the half nuts – it’s never been engaged!

To the point – the motor will not go above about 200 RPM; start in low speed and slowly turn the control knob the motor relay trips out, contactor click - click, off, on, off, on… It seems as the smaller contactor (anti plug?) drops first then the motor contactor, happens in either direction, runs all day long at lower rpm.

The only book I have is for a later model that has more electronics than this machine, other than oiling and what lever does what it's useless. I am picking up a correct one this PM from a friend.

Thank you for your thoughts and time.
Bernie LaFrance

Hi Cal.A few weeks ago I bought a boring facing head for my VN-1V.It was sold as spares,the handle and knobs were broken off.I took a chance and paid £70 for it.When it arrived I started to strip it.Looks like someone lost there temper with it,and broke the knobs.I made up handles and boring bar holders.The b-head works like a a dream.Its a D`andrea TA120.The quick traverse works well as do the 2 feed speeds.D`andrea wanted a small fortune to refurbish it.Once I have made up the Boring bars for o/d`s it would have cost me around the £200 mark.I have only used one of these before and it was a pleasure to work with.I cannot get a picture up,but the pictures are one my photobucket. I think it was a lucky find Pictures by carphil13 - Photobucket
I see you have started with your VN 16.Nice project.Regards Phil

Hi, It was recommended that I contact you about a problem with my V-N #12. When the head is in the vertical position the 600W oil leaks through the lower bearing. Is there supposed to be an oil seal in between? The manual's diagram shows a part #9450, which looks like it could be a seal, but there isn't a parts list to go with the diagram. I wanted to know before I pulled it all apart. My #12 is from 1943. There are some differences between the diagrams and the way mine is built.

Thanks,

Bill Thomas

My email is [email protected]