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R8 Collet Quality

machinistrrt

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Location
near Cleveland
Time to get a set of collets for the Bridgeport. Hardinge is the top of the heap, but what of the others? I checked with McMaster, their r8 collet set is made by Lyndex. So, the question is are the Hardinge collets worth twice as much as Lyndex- that's how the pricing seems to work.
 

FredC

Titanium
Joined
Oct 29, 2010
Location
Dewees Texas
I would think Hardinge being about double is a bargain. Royal comes to mind as decent quality. Not sure who is left with decent quality.
The Hardinge collets will last at least 1/2 a lifetime with no issues. I would think that is worth a lot.
 

car2

Stainless
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Location
Apex, NC
Only a few are needed, get the Harding collets; all others are mystery-metal, mystery heat-treatment, and mystery-origin. They hold tools perfectly if the spindle is in decent shape, bits will grab in the collet just enough to be able to tighten the drawbar, and runout, concentricity are great. Sometimes new ones are available on Ebay, but pretty rare. I've had varying luck with Lyndex collets (R8 and 5c), some are good but some looked pretty ragged (my guess is they were/are using varying sources and putting the name on it, and the boxes often showed no country of manufacture). I've recently bought a couple of 5c from McMaster, and they seem to be fine. IMO, unless you buy the Hardinge collets, might as well take your chances on the ultra-cheapos.
 

steve-l

Titanium
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Location
Geilenkirchen, Germany
First, if you do not already have R8 collets, do not start now. The design is poor because they gripn only on one end . They have a tendency to slip at the most inopportune time thrashing your work. ER collets are infinitely better.
 

car2

Stainless
Joined
Sep 19, 2009
Location
Apex, NC
Never had an issue on the BP with R8 collets slipping, but the spindle is in good condition and all the R8 collets were new Hardinge, and I use the BP within its intended capacity. I have a nice set of ETM ER collets and an R8 adapter, the problem is that with a non-rigid BP, the additional 1+ inch stickout of any adapter significantly reduces the rigidity. and consequently, the cutting quality (notwithstanding any additional runout effects), and changing tools is more of a pain than the R8. I use the hardinge R8 collets and always try to minimize the tool stickout (so rarely use tool-holders, or collet adapters unless necessary). For some small stuff requiring good positioning of small holes, sometimes spot them with a drill held in a 1/8" collet, rather than a drill chuck. Cheers
 

steve-l

Titanium
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Location
Geilenkirchen, Germany
Never had an issue on the BP with R8 collets slipping, but the spindle is in good condition and all the R8 collets were new Hardinge, and I use the BP within its intended capacity. I have a nice set of ETM ER collets and an R8 adapter, the problem is that with a non-rigid BP, the additional 1+ inch stickout of any adapter significantly reduces the rigidity. and consequently, the cutting quality (notwithstanding any additional runout effects), and changing tools is more of a pain than the R8. I use the hardinge R8 collets and always try to minimize the tool stickout (so rarely use tool-holders, or collet adapters unless necessary). For some small stuff requiring good positioning of small holes, sometimes spot them with a drill held in a 1/8" collet, rather than a drill chuck. Cheers
It isn't the collet slipping in the quill, it is the the end mill slipping in the collet. The R8 collets only grip at the end where the ER collets grip equally across the whole length of the tool shank. If you do have a tool holder height issue, which, I suggest is very rare, you can always use a dedicated end mill R8 holder.
 
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