K&T 2HL Rehab Project

MyLilMule · Jul 17, 2022

I acquired a K&T 2HL Plain earlier this year. Operationally, it was in fairly good state, just had a stuck power feed lever for the saddle. But it had a really terrible paint job. I've been spending some time disassembling, inspecting, cleaning and repainting it. I've published a couple videos on what I did. I am no machinery rebuilder. Just a hobbyist that likes to learn new things.

Here are the first few.

dana gear · Jul 25, 2022

There an engineering marvel. Have fun......................

MyLilMule · Jul 25, 2022

It is pretty remarkable. Especially when you remember this was designed with paper, pencil and a slide rule.

ramsay1 · Jul 26, 2022

MyLilMule said:
It is pretty remarkable. Especially when you remember this was designed with paper, pencil and a slide rule.

Remarkable, yes, no doubt.. Computers were in the heads of humans..Amazing how they pumped those machines out during ww2 as well... I asked my mother once how the country managed to accomplish things such as this during wartime and she replied that it is amazing what one can do when their back is against the well...I used my 1943 2hl yesterday.. Tried to put pic of the job but all my pics are suddenly too big... Cheers from Louisiana.. Ramsay 1

dana gear · Jul 27, 2022

What was truly amazing is when you see a line of K&T's 20 deep pumping out parts for the war effort. Men using nothing but the dials and hand measurement tools.
Repeatability in machined parts was simply remarkable for the day.
I still have 2 in the shop built during WWII. Build quality that is off the chart.

ramsay1 · Jul 28, 2022

dana gear said:
What was truly amazing is when you see a line of K&T's 20 deep pumping out parts for the war effort. Men using nothing but the dials and hand measurement tools.
Repeatability in machined parts was simply remarkable for the day.
I still have 2 in the shop built during WWII. Build quality that is off the chart.

I have three K&T machines made during ww2.. As they say, there is true quality under that wartime finish.... Cheers from Louisiana.. Ramsay 1

MyLilMule · Jul 28, 2022

One of these days, hopefully within the next 18 months, I want to add a war era (1940s) Monarch 12C to the shop. I'll probably let the South Bend go at that point, even though it's a 1941/1942.

MyLilMule · Sep 4, 2022

Short video this week. Putting the coolant pump back together,

ramsay1 · Sep 4, 2022

You can build that pump and assemble to either pump all the time the motor is running or just when the spindle is running.. Those pumps really like cutting oil as coolant....Cheers from Louisiana; Ramsay 1

MyLilMule · Sep 5, 2022

I've been trying to figure out just what oil. Mobilemet 426 is on the list, as is Ridgid Ni-Clear threading oil.

ramsay1 · Sep 7, 2022

MyLilMule said:
I've been trying to figure out just what oil. Mobilemet 426 is on the list, as is Ridgid Ni-Clear threading oil.

Looks like 426 is for non ferrous metals.. I use 766 but I machine mostly steel.. I have used others though, I think Shell Garia is one but I think it is discontinued... Sulfurized cutting oils.. I have, in a pinch, used hypoid gear oil because it was so plentiful at work before I retired... Oil is better I think for the pump in K&T machines.. I have seen one completely seized from the residue of soluble... Cheers from Louisiana Ramsay 1

sfriedberg · Sep 7, 2022

Mobilmet 426 works fine on steel, at least on the class of machine it's intended for. Probably not ideal for an Ingersoll-Rand planer mill with 50HP heads. They talk alot about how it isn't bad for red metals. That doesn't mean it's limited to red metals.

MyLilMule · Sep 7, 2022

ramsay1 said:
Looks like 426 is for non ferrous metals.

I think you might be misreading that. It's recommended for non-ferrous under certain circumstances, but not limited to those materials. If you trust McMaster, they are pretty clear.

Screen Shot 2022-09-07 at 2.05.12 PM.png

ramsay1 · Sep 7, 2022

MyLilMule said:
I think you might be misreading that. It's recommended for non-ferrous under certain circumstances, but not limited to those materials. If you trust McMaster, they are pretty clear.

View attachment 373514

Yep, didn't read far enough, I suppose.. This is from Mobil... https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...ial/lubricants/products/products/mobilmet-426

Looks like it will work for both and will not stain copper likely because of the lack of sulfur...I have not used this but have used 766 but most of my work is with steel....Cheers from Louisiana; Ramsay 1

MyLilMule · Sep 11, 2022

Next up, putting the transmission back into the column and reattaching the drive pulley and power feed takeoff brackets.

MyLilMule · Sep 18, 2022

The saga continues

MyLilMule · Sep 25, 2022

Things don't always go as planned.

ramsay1 · Sep 25, 2022

Might be what is wrong with my 1943 2hl universal as there is always a bit of oil in the bottom below the motor.. Been that way for many years now... Looks like your motor has grease fittings for grease lubrication.. Be sure to use purge plugs when greasing the motor to prevent grease from being forced into the windings and thus eventually ruining the motor....Belt tension needs to be just tight enough for power transmission, no more.. If thge pulleys are in good shape, that is enough... My motor is a Westinghouse sleeve bearing motor with oil rings and I had to make a new bushing for the take off end likely because someone overtightened the belts in the past.. Cheers from Louisiana; Ramsay 1

MyLilMule · Sep 26, 2022

If you saw my video of the motor rebuild, that's exactly what happened prior to me getting it. The plugs were never removed. The windings were rotten with old, dry, hardened grease.

If you're able to reach into the motor bay and pull on that conduit/pipe, if it moves down at all, then it could be yours is broken as well. I spoke with Ron Grundy (former K&T employee you probably already have heard about) and he had never heard of one of those breaking before. Was shocked when I told him it was busted in two.

ramsay1 · Sep 26, 2022

MyLilMule said:
If you saw my video of the motor rebuild, that's exactly what happened prior to me getting it. The plugs were never removed. The windings were rotten with old, dry, hardened grease.

If you're able to reach into the motor bay and pull on that conduit/pipe, if it moves down at all, then it could be yours is broken as well. I spoke with Ron Grundy (former K&T employee you probably already have heard about) and he had never heard of one of those breaking before. Was shocked when I told him it was busted in two.

The majority of old motors which are greased with grease zerks are likely to be found with windings caked with old grease because people just pumped grease in over the years without removing purge plugs prior.... The proper procedure is: Remove purge plug, pump grease into the bearing until you see the grease from your gun emerge from the purge plug..Run motor one minute with purge plug removed..Stop motor.. Wipe excess grease from purge plug hole... Install purge plug.. DO NOT ADD MORE GREASE...Use this procedure once a year and your motors will thank you for it.. Many motors have been ruined by grease entering the windings causing temperature rise and failed insulation.. Cheers from Louisiana; Ramsay 1

K&T 2HL Rehab Project

Cast Iron

Hot Rolled

Cast Iron

Titanium

Attachments

Hot Rolled

Titanium

Cast Iron

Cast Iron

Titanium

Cast Iron

Titanium

Diamond

Cast Iron

Titanium

Cast Iron

Cast Iron

Cast Iron

Titanium

Cast Iron

Titanium

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