thank you guys for all the help!
i think i want to go with a flat LO backplate (i think they call them partial finished?) and a 5c chuck setup. I have a co worker that has lots of 5c on hand.
I guess one of my original questions was does anyone make a collet closer system that sticks out the back for quick change?
It takes about the same amount of time to pull a "handwheel" and drawtube closer as to swap a nose-mount. Handwheel type closers need no linkage or torque reaction member as rear "lever" closer or front "loop" closers must have.
A handwheel closer is also dirt-cheap, and dirt-simple to DIY.
You have two ways to do the needful 5C closing taper at the nose:
A) Make a sleeve that fits the spindle's taper, even if it has to project forward to get large enough diameter to hold the collet of choice.
This is easy. It can be done right on the target lathe. It is HARD to get any TIR error into it for that very reason.
B) Make, or adapt onto/into a stock backplate, the same function as to a closing taper.
In either case.. make - or buy ready made, 5C is out there many stock lengths, already threaded - the draw TUBE. if ..the collet system is not OVERSIZE for the spindle bore.
Where it IS oversize, you would need a two-piece tube or a draw rod instead of a tube.
100% nose-mount collet sytems bypass all that and also leave the spindle bore fully open to pass rod and bar stock.
That's why I have no OTHER kind BUT 100% nose-mount. Most of my collet systems ARE larger than the spindle bore in their larger sizes.
All that said?
If your lathe's spindle bore can pass a stock 5C drawtube?
You
should make yerself a "thimble" type closer to sit in the taper, and a handwheel. Cut and fit the drawtube from store-bought stock. Learn to single-point threads some other day.
Cheap, cheerful, they center the goods very, very well, can last a long time, can be repaired and adjusted... and can be a source of pride.
Lever and loop closers are for higher speed "production".
Wheel, key, wrench operated nose-art are slower - about in the middle for cycle speed.
A Hardinge/Sjogren "Speed" chuck? "Speedy" at putting it on or taking it off.
Waaay slower than loop or lever closers to cycle the work.
ER has good grip, VERY good TIR.. but they can be about the slowest to cycle. Best used to hold drills, taps, & such rather than stock.
Swings and roundabouts...