troyke disassembly??

jackalope · Feb 20, 2007

I have a Troyke 12" Horizontal table that I want to take apart and clean thoroughly. After doing a search, I did not find anything specific as far as how to take apart.
I started to take it apart yesterday and the table started to seperate from the base but then would not come completely apart. Any ideas??
Thanks, Grant

BadDog · Feb 20, 2007

I just recently went completely through my V/H Troyke. The brake has to come apart before the table will come out. Just remove the handle and screw off the collar. There's not much else that could hold it in once the back collar is screwed off. I suppose you might also have to take out the cone bearing set screws and bump it back-n-forth a bit to unseat it in order to get the threads through the bearing.

precisionworks · Feb 20, 2007

IIRC, the cone/cup adjustment, under the table, is the final part that holds the table to the base. If you call Troyke, they'll mail a sheet showing all the details.

----------------
Barry Milton

jackalope · Feb 20, 2007

I contacted Troyke and am awaiting a response.

When I attempted to disassemble yesterday, I removed the screw collar from the base as well as the lcoking "T" handle screw. The base and table seperated about 1/8" but that was it. What might be binding or holding it from completely seperating. I certainly don't want to "pry" anything apart. It is smooth operating but I want to clean it well and change oil, etc. Thanks.---Grant

morsetaper2 · Feb 20, 2007

I have a 9" Troyke, and IIRC the spanner nut on underside removes and it should seperate. I have a blueprint somewhere (from Troyke). What is the model #, perhaps some info pertinat towards yours is on their. I'll see if i can find it.

Mark

morsetaper2 · Feb 20, 2007

OK, the drawing was right where I thought it was. One is a x-section of model BH-12, dated 1948. It show the threaded collar, (spanner nut whatever), and a screw that holds the split bushing in place, and IIRC, puts preload on the split bush too??

This screw should be visible once you remove the collar. When I took mine apart it was obvious you had to remove the screw to get the split bush out.

It should come out ok at that point. If you start prying, us plastic or soft aluminum or brass.

Mark

BadDog · Feb 21, 2007

Yep, that's what I was talking about loosening the cone bushing. Once that spanner collar/ring is off, and the brake collar is removed, there is nothing that can hold it there, unless it's different than mine. The only thing I can guess is that the main collar threads are grabbing in the cone and holding the table. If you remove the 2 adjustment screws, and knock the table back down that 1/8" you raised it, the bush should drop and expand making removal easy. It did on mine...

BadDog · Feb 21, 2007

Oh, and the pivot pin for the fork that controls engagement is behind a plug in the back. Take out the plug and the pin is threaded (1/4-20 IIRC?). I just ran in a long bolt and wiggled the fork to get the pin out. The worm assembly is another matter. It comes out easily with that big bolt, but it is an absolute SOB PIA to take apart. Finally, the engagement fork range limit is set via a plug in the vertical foot (side if horizontal) which gives access to a grub screw. You have to remove the first one to access a second screw to set the limit, then reinstall the first screw to lock the adjustment. Finally, set the cone bushing using the 2 adjustment screws so that the table turns smoothly but begins to drag (by hand, worm disengaged), back off just a bit, and bump with a hammer to get it back to smooth. That's pretty much the whole deal, mine works smooth as new with no backlash at all.

morsetaper2 · Feb 21, 2007

Exactly as BadDog sez. If you can't get what you need from Troyke, let me know, I can copy the 2 sheets & mail to you. I will try to remember to bring the sheets into work and I'll scan & post them in the manuals section. One of the sheets is adjusting the worm & backlash.

Mark

jackalope · Feb 22, 2007

Please let me know when you post this in the Manuals section. I emailed Troyke but never heard back from them??
Thanks, Grant

jackalope · Feb 26, 2007

Mark,
Did you ever get a chance to copy the manual? I could R E A L L Y use a copy

Thanks, Grant

morsetaper2 · Mar 8, 2007

grant,

Just saw this a few mins ago. When I go back to work Fri I will scan a copy and post a link.

Mark

BadDog · Mar 8, 2007

Still having trouble with this? Or did you get it worked out?

jackalope · Mar 8, 2007

Thanks Mark!

As for still having trouble with it...I have not even been able to so much as look at it. I have been so darn busy with side work that I actually had to put all of the orders on a full spread sheet just so I could try to keep up!! Haven't been this busy in awhile!! Not complainin' tho.--Grant

morsetaper2 · Mar 9, 2007

I have posted the adjustment procedure and some addl Troyke catalog scans HERE.

Robert Campbell Jr. · Mar 28, 2007

One of those, "seemed like a good idea at the time" things. Just in case there might be someone out there as dumb as I, this could save a lot of wasted hours.

I bought a heavy 16" RT for nothing, ($67 ebay, close by, inspected before bidding), dirty and a T-slot pull-out but otherwise hardly used.

Needed a large base for an even larger aluminum plate so the pull-out didn't hurt. Tore it down to clean and inspect, greased the worm gear and rather substantial bearing ring with WHEEL BEARING GREASE, what ever possessed me?!!!

Reassembled and it was nearly IMPOSSIBLE to turn the table, talk about "sticktion"!

Have become an expert at disassembly/reassembly. Grease out, way oil in, works like, uh, a well oiled machine.

Confession is good for the soul, Bob

wes43 · Mar 29, 2007

I am also trying to disassemble a 12” Troyke rotary table and am having some trouble. I have removed the large spanner nut on the bottom, and the table lock. The top will separate form the base about ¼” then not go any further. I think this because it is binding up with the worm gear. I am not sure how to disengage the worm. I am guessing is has to with the threaded collar with the tapped holes around the outside. Can someone explain the procedure used to disengage the worm? I suspect that it is probably stuck. Thanks.

BadDog · Mar 29, 2007

Loosen off the hand wheel that engages the worm to the gear so that the handle spins free without driving the table. Then remove the big pivot bolt on the hand wheel side and the whole worm drive assembly comes out.

When you removed the lock handle, did you back the "nut" completely off the threaded shaft that goes through the casting? What you described sounds a lot like what happens when you don't have the lock loose.

And, just to make sure, you did remove the cone bearing jam screws after removing the big threaded collar from the back of the assembly? Once those are out, you’ll need to bump the table around a bit with a rubber mallet to loosen it up (assuming it was tight), but that does not sound like your problem, unless maybe it’s binding on the threads as they start through the bearing?

Then again, it's now been a few months since I did mine and memory is fading.

MGKELLY · Feb 28, 2022

Has anyone found a disassembly procedure for the Troyke BH-12 rotary table?

thanks, Joe

Maxxx17 · May 25, 2022

Thank you very much.

troyke disassembly??

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