old drill press found in garage - opto - drill

bean5 · Jun 28, 2017

found this old drill press in my parents' garage (opto-drill model lcn-14) and I want to clean it up and use it. It seems to work fine, the only problem is the chuck doesn't work, it binds and doesn't open or close. I can't figure out how to change it out either. Any help would be appreciated The nut right above the chuck is loose and not really attached anything. No slot on the quill where I can use the wedge tool either.

Milland · Jun 28, 2017

That nut may be the chuck removal tool. Use a pair of spacers between the nut face and the chuck (it looks like there's room for a couple 1/4" steel strips), then unscrew the nut so it's bearing on the strips/chuck. Lock the spindle so it won't rotate (clamp around the useless chuck if need be), then continue to unscrew the nut.

If the nut won't do it on its own, gentle tapping with a steel hammer may shock the chuck loose. Not too hard, don't want to damage the spindle bearings.

Milland · Jun 28, 2017

May not need the spacers, they'll want to twist out. Just watch that at least three threads are still engaged between spindle and nut when it gets to forcing the nut. If you do need spacers something round like split washers (actual washers, not lock washers) may work better.

michiganbuck · Jun 28, 2017

First spray WD on it (in it) for two weeks.. it may come loose...WD wetting then light tapping with a brass hammer or the like.

Yes you may need to tip the machine to get WD into the chuck works..

bean5 · Jun 28, 2017

appreciate the help. Looks like I'll have to go the WD route. The nut is loose because the threads are stripped. I guess this is why it was hidden away. I tried giving it a few clean raps with a rubber mallet and it didn't budge.

michiganbuck · Jun 28, 2017

Could be threaded and the nut as a lock nut.. would not expect rubber hammer to be much good. good that the direction of thread gives clue to thread in chuck..Hope to loosen the chuck inners first ...then work on the holding threads..Tap sides all around with brass slug.. Make a brass chisel and light tap the wrench jaws a bit one way and back. It should cpme free IMHO. *Yes all After the two week soak..

bean5 · Jun 28, 2017

ok good news and bad news. I got impatient and didn't wait for the WD40, tried using a regular hammer and gave it a few good taps. Noticed that it budged a bit so gave it a couple more and it finally came off! Only problem is that it looks chewed up...should I just sand this down or is it not a big deal? Also, this is all new to me so sorry if I'm asking stupid questions. Are chucks pretty much universal or do I have to find the right one?

michiganbuck · Jun 28, 2017

Shame hard whacking can mess up a good chuck that is just stuck....

Qt: [this is all new to me so sorry] You asked an old timer and then did it your way...Now the chuck is off and still stuck..

bean5 · Jun 28, 2017

Again I appreciate the help and sorry if it seems that I ignored your advice but I didn't see it until after I got the chuck off. Considering how that nut was stripped and the spindle is all chewed up, whoever worked on this before it got put away wasn't too kind to it. I was hoping to get a keyless chuck for it and if not, is there no way to unstick the chuck and put it back? I would assume so. Thanks again for your help.

Milland · Jun 28, 2017

Does the machine turn on and run the spindle? If so, does it spin true, or is there wobble in the tapered section? Any noise?

If the tapered section is good, you can ([email protected]) sand the spindle lightly while it's running with a very fine sandpaper to remove nubs, then I'd replace the chuck with one with the right taper. There may be some faint numbers on the old chuck that give its taper size, look at it carefully and report any numbers/letters on it here.

There are charts available that can help you determine an unknown taper, but it's easier to read it off the old part if available.

bean5 · Jun 28, 2017

drill press turns on and seems to work fine. No unusual noises and as far as I can tell the spindle doesn't wobble. Only markings I can see on the chuck are that it's a Victor brand 13mm E. Has No. 07110 also.

Milland · Jun 28, 2017

Do you have any measuring tools like a micrometer or caliper? If you can take two measurements of the taper at a reasonably precise distance apart (that's important) we might be able to figure out the standard taper.

wawoodman · Jun 28, 2017

Can we see some pics of the rest of the unit?

rons · Jun 29, 2017

bean5 said:
ok good news and bad news. I got impatient and didn't wait for the WD40, tried using a regular hammer and gave it a few good taps. Noticed that it budged a bit so gave it a couple more and it finally came off! Only problem is that it looks chewed up...should I just sand this down or is it not a big deal? Also, this is all new to me so sorry if I'm asking stupid questions. Are chucks pretty much universal or do I have to find the right one?

View attachment 202231

No, a few taps with a hammer isn't going to give you circular marks like that. Looks like the chuck spun on the tapered seat. The FIY way would be to run the drill at speed and grind down the high marks. And then try to take down any high marks in the chuck hole. Ideally the tapers on both parts have to be the same so that the chuck doesn't come off or spin in the arbor when a demanding hole is being drilled.

The non-FYI method would be to see if you can dismantle the spindle any further. Replace or repair.

michiganbuck · Jun 29, 2017

You can do like rons said..perhaps blue it up - set it to slowest speed and hold a good quality file to the same angle held by hand to remove the major bugs. then finish with a hone or just call the file finish good enough...the chuck is is more difficult..if it looks fair you might blue it to the spindle end then give it a good wack-on and see if it sticks..you may need to buy a new chuck if the old does not come free or is wrecked by the hard hammer whack. Yes you can clean the spindle nose and the chuck ID and glue it with the best lock tight.

Scottl · Jun 29, 2017

Try lowering the chuck into a coffee can filled with Automatic Transmission Fluid and let it soak for a couple of days. It is amazing what that treatment can do for freeing up rusty stuff. If there is no quill lock you may have to tie the lever down to keep the chuck submerged.

Edit: Too late. I posted before seeing your follow-up post where you removed the chuck from its taper.

bean5 · Jun 30, 2017

appreciate all the help guys. I'll post a pic when I get the drill press out of the garage. @Rons, yeah, I didn't think I did any damage to the chuck (except a few barely visible dents where I hammered it) or the spindle, and when I took it to work to show to a friend of mine, he said the same thing you did. I took the advice up above but without waiting a week. Sprayed WD on it and let it sit for a few hours, tapped it with a brass hammer here and there, and it loosened up. Works well enough now where I can hand tighten it pretty easily. Put it back on the press (don't think I can clean up the ring marks on the inside, but I knocked down the ones on the spindle a bit) and it works great. I need to get a dial indicator to see how much wobble there is if any but a few test holes I did with a forstner bit came out great. Thanks again for all the help.

rons · Jun 30, 2017

You can get a tapered shank and smear some grinding paste on it. Then do the in and out to the chuck. That would clean up the hole. I think it's a bad idea to use a carbide particle grinding paste. The carbides will imbed into the mating metal pieces and will wear the fit. Maybe somebody else can chime in on that. I just know that is a bad idea for a tail stock bore. As it is, you might think it is working great but the spindle is turning in the bore under a load. That's how it came to look like that in the first place.

If you want to leave things as is then I suggest that you mark the location where the chuck and spindle meet, a fine line with a black ink pen. Then you can see later if the chuck is staying in place or moving.

TrollForge · Jan 12, 2018

bean5, I realize this is a seven month old thread, but I was wondering if you got a new chuck. From what I can see in your photos I am wondering if you have the same machine as I do, marketed under a different name... Do you have more photos of the rest of the drill press? I just posted a video of mine over at YouTube.
Mine is a Long Chang Machinery CO. LTD. LCN-14.

bean5 · Feb 12, 2019

sorry for the late late reply. I can post more photos later, but never got a new chuck for it. Using the same one. I don't want to put too much into the drill, but if I do end up working on it, I would have to replace the arbor first since that's all chewed up. It could be the same drill press though, this one was made in taiwan I think.

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