Questions Moving a Reid 618 HYD Surface Grinder

Just bought a Reid 618 HYD hydraulic surface grinder on an auction and am looking for some information on moving it. I am unsure of the year, it's serial number 17239. I found a PDF manual for a Reid that looks similar to this one on Vintage Machinery through a thread on here, but it does not address what needs to be done regarding the table while moving the machine. They have a rigger onsite and I have a forklift at my place, so no worries on that side. I will have the grinder sealed from the elements during transport as well. Just trying to understand what all needs to be secured or done to this machine before moving it. I have a 3.5 hour drive home with it, so it will see a few miles. My assumptions/questions are below. Please correct me or provide suggestions on any area that I am wrong or you have a better recommendation.

1. From the manual that I found I believe this table does not use ball bearings. With that, I assume that it is not necessary to remove the table and instead just need to ensure that it is properly strapped to the rest of the machine to ensure no movement. Please correct me if I am wrong.
2. I need to lightly set the spindle on a block of wood to reduce forces on it.
3. The machine appears to be full of hydraulic fluid as they had a demonstration video of it running. Is the hydraulic tank sealed enough that it won't be leaking while I'm driving down the road or should this be drained?
4. It is in the twenties here during the day. I can't think of any issues that freezing would cause this unit, but thought I should ask.
5. Anything that I am not thinking of?

I have included a few pictures of the grinder from the auction and a link to it's listing in case the other pictures help to identify it better. Thank you in advance for your help!!!







https://bid.premiermachineryauctions.com/ui/auctions/87934/9700782

If it is a solid way machine, the table does not need to be removed. Just strap it tight so it can't oscillate side to side. Drain the oil. It will slosh in transit, you don't want a leak or a mess. You can just pump most of it out into lidded 5 gallon buckets. A little remnant left in the sump won't cause any trouble. Other than that you've got it pretty well covered.

eKretz, thanks for the help!

QT (I need to lightly set the spindle on a block of wood to reduce forces on it.)
So the up/down nut is in the free /slack zone.
I have never pumped out oil on a small SG because you may have an airlock someplace that could be a bugger to rid, but yes you may have a little oil in your truck/trailer.
I like to get a roll of wrap so with wrapping road grit is kept out, and any loose something is caught in the wrap...

looks like a very nice machine..and the Reid oil-ways SG is a top-quality machine.
I like to let a SG to rest a few days before grinding the chuck.
look under to see the ways are a little wet with oils..and not rusted from long-setting.
The spindle sounds great, but sometimes a setting grinder wheel can become dirt logged, so if you get an odd surface finish after dressing try a new wheel.
*If you have never ground a SG chuck or question what wheel let us know

In the 20s so I would try to not let it set outside overnight if you can.

michiganbuck
Thanks for the heads up on the spindle! As for wrapping it up, I agree. Road grit is the least of my worries. We are in salt season here on the roads. I hauled a 10ee home with similar situations. I wrapped it in 6 mill plastic, pallet wrapped the plastic, and then duck tape wrapped much of it to prevent the wind from ripping the pallet wrap. Made it home perfectly dry.

Thanks for the pointer on letting it set for a few days too. This machine will actually set for a little while in the shop as I am still cleaning up a couple other machines that followed me home recently. I have never worked with a surface grinder before, so I will absolutely be doing a ton of reading on here and ask questions when necessary. I appreciate everyone's willingness to help! I need to dig out a container I have full of 20 to 30 new grinding wheels that I got in a cabinet I bought on auction a few years ago to see what I all have. I'm sure I will be asking some questions about those.

And I will also make sure it is unloaded that night and put in the shop to cut down on condensation. Again, thanks for the input and for listening to the spindle on the video.

The big long travel hand wheel makes it unique I have seen that model for sale but never ran one. I guess that machine is near the last Reids made.

Guessing early to mid 60s machine.

I had one, never knew the date.
Machine movers would not transport until I emptied all oil out. .... Weenies.
Just to show how smart they where I went out into the shop and they are about to pick a SG with a forklift by under the table.
.... I am paying you people $11,000 for a 30 mile shop move and this is your best?
Do not even ask about the 9000 lb Walter brought in last week. I have come to the conclusion that machine riggers are brain dead.
(sorry, soapbox rant and blowing off some steam)

There is another danger - that of hydraulic hoses held on by hose clamps coming loose on bumpy roads. I had one come loose when I moved my 618 KO Lee home, and OMG did it make a mess quickly when I fired it up at home. I was unfamiliar with the hose layout inside (the machine was after all new to me) and I dearly wished I'd taken some digital photos of the hydraulic hoses up inside the machine before the move. Fortunately, when I did find the loose hose and put it back, all the leaks stopped.

I second the suggestion to drain and reserve the fluid. A full hydraulic reservoir can slosh around pretty good on the back of a truck, and I didn't trust that it wouldn't wind up all over the bed. I changed my fluid anyway just on general principles. But I wouldn't move a hydraulic surface grinder without draining most of the fluid first.

metalmagpie

Thanks everyone! I'll drain the fluid before transport. I always do a fluid change on new to me machines as well. The manual lays out the drain port right on the front of the machine, so really straight forward. Again, I appreciate all of the suggestions. Headed up Wednesday to pick it up.

Nice lookin machine! I have one that the serial # is the 16K range which puts it in the 60's. It's a sealed self-contained hydraulic unit in the pull out drawer. Only hauled mine about 30 miles and didn't drain anything or loose any oil from the hydraulic unit *see below for oil leaks*. The manual tells about purging air if you feel better draining some out. Still replacing some Bijur oil lines and meters for the auto-oiler. Only one subpar feature is the draining system for the oil that pumps to the ways / head /etc. Drain pan above the hydraulic tank towards the back which can be rusted out and leak into the base frame, ask me how I know. Pull the drawer open and look along the base casting there is a big trough all the way around. Mine had a lot of oil in there from the pan leaking for ? years. This is where you may see some oil spill to the deck of your trailer, not the hydraulic unit. Good luck on the trip!

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone. Got the machine home last Wednesday with no issues at all. Zap921, you were right on. The hydraulic system was self-contained. Ended up not draining it and had no issues. As you said, the only drips I got were from the Bijur oil drain system. I'll be posting questions when I get to going through the machine down the road. Thanks!

QT Op: ( I found I believe this table does not use ball bearings)
Good, I think the scraped ways Reid is a better machine if buying used.
Don't be quick to grind the chuck..be sure you have a proper wheel and know what you are doing.

Typically you dress the wheel and turn it off.. then come down to hand-feel-rub the parked wheel on the chuck on the near-to-you side. Go up and come down to -.002 and parked wheel long-travel across for a no-hit. Whisk the parked wheel across the entire to be sure it doesn't touch any place. So then knowing the hit number consider grinding. * Doing this there is little chance of crashing the wheel into a High place/area of the chuck.

It makes good sense to always jog-start the spindle, RPM up to about <1/2 speed let it slow and then fire up. A spindle setting for months hand spin it a few times.

Qt Op; I have full of 20 to 30 new grinding wheels that I got i...

*You might mention some of the courser ones and the Pm guys will help pick a chuck-grinding one.. and consider a way to wet-grind the chuck..I would likely check the tightness of the chuck hold down and back off to about 16 to 20 lbs.

I think you did real good. Looks to be in nice shape.

I have basically the same grinder. Don't do what I did - I proceeded to drop it when taking it off the truck. Ultimately I did fix it about 10 years later. I know the grinder well - let me know if you ever need any help with it. I ended up using relays to automate it some - to stop or shut down when it hits the limit switches.

Mine is serial number 19637. It is from 1972 - my employer bought it new and I have the original receipt.

I ended up buying a new single phase hydraulic motor for it. This is the correct "tang motor" used on the pumps. At least my version.

Nice info Mark, does yours have the power downfeed?

Zap921 said:

Nice info Mark, does yours have the power downfeed?

Click to expand...

Mine does not. Wish it did.

Mine does but one of the 2 previous owners disabled it. I found a couple wires with crimp-on caps that definitely weren't factory but haven't had time to chase that issue down. The manual I got directly from Reid doesn't match the wiring in my machine for the downfeed. I'm just getting it back together after replacing most of the oil meters and a couple lines. So far so good. Good to know you and Nemesis also have one.