Looking for good thin dicing blade for surface grinder

Hi all,
I've posted a query or two in recent weeks having to do with my intention to use my old B&S No. 2 surface grinder to dice and grind fused silica optics. I got a cheap, 0.025"-thick, 7"-dia diamond blade and I'm not happy with the chipping I'm getting when I dice a larger piece into little 1/4" cubes. I think I need a significantly better dicing blade darn it; I think probably smaller in diameter (e.g. 4" dia would be fine) and ideally, it would be for a 1-1/4" spindle arbor like I have on the B&S grinder (I had to make an arbor adapter for the original blade, which has a 5/8" dia hole in it--so ditch the adapter, too, hopefully). I've had a hard time finding a source of thin, rigid, low-run-out dicing blades with a 1-1/4" thru-hole in them. Would anybody have any suggestions? This is something that's actually being paid for, so if they're not terribly cheap, that's ok (e.g., I also just bought an MSC 1/16"-wide diamond wheel, ~ $170, and it's worth every dollar...I'd use it to dice, too, but I'm just losing too much of the optic with that sort of kerf width) Thanks--Charley in Colorado (kinda cold here right now...!)

Years ago when phenolic was popular for making circuit boads I rebuild some Do-All Slicer / Dicer machines for Control Data.. They looked like a regular surface grinder, but the hydraulic table feed was super slow. Slower then the feed on a regular surface grinder. That maybe your problem with your wheel breaking down. Your moving to fast.

Try Thermocarbon in Casselberry FL. I've used their wheels on silica and sapphire with good results. Some hints: throttle your table to perhaps 3"/min., climb cut, use ma harder mounting wax, piut a sacrificial piece on top of the good optic, use around .010" wide wheel, flange the wheel, the wheel needs to mbreaak down while cutting to preserve cut quality.

QT OP: (7"-dia diamond blade and I'm not happy with the chipping)
Often the likes of a surface grinder and a diamond parting wheel 120 to 220gt x 7" x .035 (or whaat) make an excellent cut-off setup for carbide and glass-like material. Use the down feed because that is often a controllable steady feed. Running wet there should be no chipping. There may be a little nub left if the part is not held at both sides of the parting wheel.
Part-off and then bumping to a face-side diamond wheel is common to remove the nub. One can mount an OD cut-off wheel, and a face-cutting wheel on the same spindle for a hand operation to grind off the cut-off nub. set long travel table-stops, one where the Y block sets, and the other LT stop where the nub taking is done. Length can be to a stop and .001 length control is easy.
Yes, using a double wheel likely you would face-dress the facing wheel.

Vitrified or resin bond diamond wheels used wet have a very long life if not rushed and best used with a slow down feed plunge with the part held stationary, long travel left and right with incremental down feeds is a waste of wheel and time.

Very common plated diamond cut-off wheels come in 80 grit and have a few serrations/notches and have a tough/hard bonding so letting the diamonds dull before the can let lose., they are very likely to leave a chipped edge and perhaps break a material like glass.

MTI use to make a lot of slicing and dicing tooling.