Ideas for sticky posts in Abrasive Machining section

Ok team, let's do some brainstorming on what we might like to have in sticky posts here in Abrasive. I was thinking that limiting the stickies to 2 or 3 would be good. One for links and such about good reference material and informative grinder manuals or guides. Another idea I had was perhaps links to various youtube channels that have good grinding videos. Those could be how-to videos or simply technical developments about different types and styles of grinding wheel, etc. What do you guys think? Buck, would you be interested in doing a little write-up for a sticky post of your own?

I'll sticky this post temporarily since I know not all of us are here every day... After we get some ideas rolling I'll unstick it.

I think your opening ideas and suggestions are pretty good, so hard to comment on them.

I did have some ideas I'm sure you saw, but maybe others have comments on in post #10 here:
New moderator intro

I was thinking about something else. Sometimes its hard to get the ball rolling, or decide how to present, or write it out. I'm a slow writer and might spend hours prepping and thinking on it. I see guys like thermite or EG write a page of material in 5 minutes, and I don't know how they do it.

I consider stickies an ongoing project. I can add or edit them over very long periods of time, so it does not need to be 100% complete at first writing. . . But also, stickies hang around for years, so how do I want it to look ?

One example could be very simple. You have topics in bold, and link various links under each particular topic. This simple and easy approach I took here:
Major Rebuilds, Repairs, & Info Per Manufacture

And as time passes, I come across threads to add to it. I just edit and drop a link in.

Another similar and simple style:
The Sticky Archives of South Bend Lathes


Now if you want something with more style, I'd recommend looking at the work Paula did in South Bend. The links are in bold and blue, and she wrote her own description following each link. Very nicely detailed. I've been working on updating and editing these a bit, and found myself compelled to sort of copy and paste her style as it just looks so nice. As far as moderators go, she just operated on a whole 'nother level, and put so much thought and detail in everything she's done:
South Bend Links: Sources for Info, Parts, and Supplies

Now I don't know coding the way she does. So I click edit to look at the format. I then copy end sections of the code to make it present the same way. Example, look at this thread:
Noteworthy Threads

Now as moderator of this section, click "edit" on my post. Look at the code for the link and description (16" SB Spindle Bearing Question(s)):

16" SB Spindle Bearing Question(s) - This thread, by 'Henro' delves into the intricacies of South Bend spindle bearing re-fitting. While the subject lathe is a 16", many of the principles apply to others sizes as well.

Funny story for all of you, I tried writing the code as an example. . .but the code does what its supposed to, . So I can't write it where its visible. I'll try screen shoting it:

God forbid we should have NO stickies!

On second thought, why not?

I think at least one or two would be nice to have. I don't like to see half a page full so much either.

Re: Buck, would you be interested in doing a little write-up for a sticky post of your own?
I guess possible subjects might be:
- dressing a wheel
- make a setup that you can't push over with one hand.
- grinder safety.
- rapid stock removal
- making size or shape to spec.
- checking and grinding to dead square.
- care of the machine
- fix a warp
- surface finish
- grind a chuck or a big part
Every SG hand & want to be..needs to see this (Surface finish and dressing the wheel).

michiganbuck said:

Re: Buck, would you be interested in doing a little write-up for a sticky post of your own?
I guess possible subjects might be:
- dressing a wheel
- make a setup that you can't push over with one hand.
- grinder safety.
- rapid stock removal
- making size or shape to spec.
- checking and grinding to dead square.
- care of the machine
- fix a warp
- surface finish
- grind a chuck or a big part
Every SG hand & want to be..needs to see this (Surface finish and dressing the wheel).

Click to expand...

Whatever you want is cool by me. You could write up stuff and add it when you are ready, then I'll lock it so it just contains your stuff - that way it doesn't get all diluted.

As far as I'm concerned, you're among the best we've got for writing up good guides. I think I'd have to sit for some time and write and rewrite to do stuff as good as you seem to belt out in a couple minutes. I always forget small details when I'm writing vs. actually working.

Thanks, Eric
Here is a "What is wrong with this video?" Don't look at the answer till after you watch




The diamond stem/shank is too long / the block body could be taller to give better support / the block could be round so not always set in the same direction..

Yes, it is a cluster diamond having a number if diamonds, they are pretty good.

Yes, way too tall/too much stickout. And the base being round with a round cluster dresser is a good idea. Also the coolant should be directed so that it is actually hitting the interface of the wheel and the dresser.

Hog grinding with a surface grinder.
I certainly don’t want to suggest people do any unsafe grinding practices but if you saw me hog grinding a yard of sparks with a good quality vitrified wheel you might shudder to think my setup would blow up. A surface grinder can near beat a mill for 100 thousandths take off. Part of that speed is having a magnetic chick and a back rail that can be trusted for .001 and better accuracy with little setup time or effort. When you see a bull of a guy pushing a part with most of his might into an over-size pedestal grinder, then you know what I am talking about.

Down grinding is using long travel and crossfeed with the full width of the wheel, so a 46 or courser open wheel is often the need.

Down grinding with the full wheel is an asset to high-performance stock removal so having a 46 or courser wheel is often the need. Blocking in and under the part so a stout one-hand push with not topple the set-up is another necessity. Often one might take a full wheel width by .001+ deep with each long travel pass.

Qualifications for such grinding is a “set up that you cant push over with a solid one hand push,” which is about a 35 pounds push in the go direction and downward toward the chuck. Using clamps is an option if it can push.

A set-up should have a bump stop block in the go direction (left of the part on most grinders) Any openness where the part can be pushed downward toward the chuck on the right and left side should be filled with some sort of under support.

You don’t/never want to stall your wheel with grinding, but a good set up should aim at that kind of strength of holding power.

With failing the push test perhaps an extra bock-in that is clamped to the part, with being careful that the clamping does not tilt the part off contact with the mag surface.

Heat and part swelling can push Block-ins apart so clamping is often the better choice than just reliing soley on tight blocking -in.

*I have never yet seen a viedo or a book that gave surface grinder set-ups.
Perhaps that should be my task.

Reminds me of work where they had a 10hp toolpost grinder for the 14' swing Craven lathe. It was used for trimming steam turbine rotor blades and truing integral shrouds/glands on the rotor on the odd occasions when that was needed.

But yes, I'd love to see most of the above suggestions in a small number of stickies at the top of the subforum

The fewer the better. I don't won't to see the same shit every time I open a subforum. I want to see what is new. Maybe a hard and fast rule or two but how to dress a wheel? Hell no.

but how to dress a wheel? Hell no.
Agree, but the newbie needs to know the simple stuff. I have likely posted the same old stuff a number of times that a grinder hand has known from his first week of grinding.
The same goes for manual turning threads, how many times do we tell the same things.

michiganbuck said:

Hog grinding with a surface grinder.
I certainly don’t want to suggest people do any unsafe grinding practices but if you saw me hog grinding a yard of sparks with a good quality vitrified wheel you might shudder to think my setup would blow up. A surface grinder can near beat a mill for 100 thousandths take off. Part of that speed is having a magnetic chick and a back rail that can be trusted for .001 and better accuracy with little setup time or effort. When you see a bull of a guy pushing a part with most of his might into an over-size pedestal grinder, then you know what I am talking about.

Down grinding is using long travel and crossfeed with the full width of the wheel, so a 46 or courser open wheel is often the need.

Down grinding with the full wheel is an asset to high-performance stock removal so having a 46 or courser wheel is often the need. Blocking in and under the part so a stout one-hand push with not topple the set-up is another necessity. Often one might take a full wheel width by .001+ deep with each long travel pass.

Qualifications for such grinding is a “set up that you cant push over with a solid one hand push,” which is about a 35 pounds push in the go direction and downward toward the chuck. Using clamps is an option if it can push.

A set-up should have a bump stop block in the go direction (left of the part on most grinders) Any openness where the part can be pushed downward toward the chuck on the right and left side should be filled with some sort of under support.

You don’t/never want to stall your wheel with grinding, but a good set up should aim at that kind of strength of holding power.

With failing the push test perhaps an extra bock-in that is clamped to the part, with being careful that the clamping does not tilt the part off contact with the mag surface.

Heat and part swelling can push Block-ins apart so clamping is often the better choice than just reliing soley on tight blocking -in.

*I have never yet seen a viedo or a book that gave surface grinder set-ups.
Perhaps that should be my task.

Click to expand...

Normally I snip a post when it'll wind up on same page; but...... That technique of wheel burning hogging is prevalent two places. 1, Giant machines. 2 Diemakers; building fine-blanking tooling, punches and built up dies. You offered terrific visuals of capable set ups and inarguable justifications.

Regarding stickies; less is more. If any term is searched properly, it'll pop up.
Initially, might suggest one for installation; inspect used, rigging-transport, wiring, leveling, testing spindles, dust collection, running wet, all the stuff bettering chances of running good parts.
Next is jobs; wheel selection, set ups, monitoring remaining material without constant stop and check, picking up surface after dressing. What happened to those wheel charts matching grade-grit-bond for various metals and resultant finish?
One needs split off into cylindrical work, whole different animal.
At 03:22 that's all I've got.

Still thinking about whether we need anything or not. I was thinking about throwing up one sticky with links to useful downloadables at vintage machinery. Things like the Norton grinding book that covers wheel selection for different materials and operations, that wheel dressing manual I sent out to a bunch of people and a few others.

Sources
Where to get what you need with the best customer service. Or maybe the fastest or cheapest? Where to get diamonds or have them re-lapped. (Does anyone re-lap diamonds anymore?) How about parts sources like (rubber) grit shields. Mag chuck repairs.
John