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Moving CNC Mill not connected to power

LooseChange72

Plastic
Joined
Apr 23, 2022
Hello Community,

I have a machine that was recently purchased by my company that we are set to move. The machine is a Milltronics RH20 and is relatively small. It is not connected to power and there is no possibility to get it connected to power to move the -Z- Axis up or down so that the spindle can be braced/secured. The spindle is sitting 7"-8" inches above the table.

The machine is going to have a long transit and I want to know if there is anyone that could give me ideas on how to brace the spindle so that they -Z- axis does not get damaged from the journey on the truck?

Any help will be much appreciated.
 

matt_isserstedt

Diamond
Joined
Dec 15, 2003
Location
suburbs of Ann Arbor, MI, USA
Personally I would use softwood 2x4/2x6 blocking that you bolt to the T-slot(s) in a right-angle setup, use 1/2" or thicker plywood squares or gussets to stiffen the L- or T-shape.

If your machine has a counterweight for the milling head, its important to also secure that in place for transit...for that one you would need to check out the machine manuals. Possibly its a setup which bolts or pins in place. The bigger challenge might be getting that into alignment without the power-on. If there were roller chains connecting the two elements you might be able to hook into those strands to shift the counterweight separate from the milling head. Slack roller chain would just be along for the ride.
 

Modelman

Titanium
Joined
Sep 12, 2007
Location
Northern Illinois
Not familiar with that particular machine, but I agree with Matt, bolt a wood block to the table and use wood wedges to put some preload on it. In addition for positioning things like counter weights or centering the table, any machine with ball screws can be made to move by taking the servo motor off and turning whatever the servo motor drives.

Dennis
 

LooseChange72

Plastic
Joined
Apr 23, 2022
Thank you for all the comments. I will definitely use the wood block method to secure the spindle. I'll contact the manufacturer about the counterweights. Its going to be interesting with the transit. Right now the trucking industry is in a tight pinch with the cost diesel fuel.
 

solidworks4u

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 23, 2011
Location
19970 DE USA
May I reach out for help, from the community with question about how to secure the counterweight, on a Revel SuperMax 2 machine center, (x=25";y=16"; 8600 lbs) for moving about 30 miles. Including in purchase were some of the manuals, but have not seen in any of the manuals how to secure the counterweight. I have only seen the machine in person 1 time, it needs to be moved soon. When I saw the mill, the back cover was in place, so to see the counterweight you needed to get low and look up under the edge of the cover.

Many thanks for any suggestions!!
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
Typically there is a pin that goes through the casting and through the weight.
This needs to be done when under power.

They are seldom ever pinned as used machines.
They just clank down the road.


--------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

Richard King

Diamond
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Location
Cottage Grove, MN 55016
If the machine is not under power I would remove any covers on the column and look in there and see if you can wood block under the weights or put a hydraulic jack under it to temporarily support it. Also block the headstock with wood or again a jack. place wood under it. The head will be hanging on the ball screw that probably had a brake on it. You may be able to turn the pulley on the feed motor to raise it and put a wood block under the head. I would also use a air ride trailer if you can. Spring trailers are bad on machines. It may cost you more, but hook it back up to power and slide in some bars like OX said. Many times they cover the column holes with sheet metal plates or like a frost plug. If your putting it on your spring trailer, drive slow and avoid bumpy roads. I have also seen where they use bolts coming in from the sides of the column. Check and see if there is a operators manual and there is probably instructions on removing the bars in the weights as it was shipped that way when new. Reverse what it says. The weights usually use a flat chain that loops over a pully above the headstock, you maybe able to use that to lift the weights.. Be careful as if the chain breaks and the weights fall the casting under it can crack. .Good Luck.
 
Last edited:

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
Ummmmmm......

I'd not want to block the weight up.
In most cases, I'd consider the pins "blocking the weight down".

If you block the weight "up", you are puting weight on the ball screw that wasn't meant to be - and at the worst time possible. (bouncy roads)

I would prefer to cut a 2by just long enough that you could tonk it under the spindle, but I wouldn't dink with the weights. They will make noise, but not likely going to hurt anything. I've yet to see a post about the counterweights being, or dooing damage during shipment, and hardly ever are those weights captured after "new".


-----------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

Richard King

Diamond
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Location
Cottage Grove, MN 55016
That's a matter of opinion as I have had to replace ball screws on VMC's that were moved and were not blocked. If they didn't want the weights pinned, why did the factory do it when the machine was new? I've also seen where the pins holding the chains to the head sheer off and the weights dropped and cracked the column / base casting. Better safe then sorry!
 

Ox

Diamond
Joined
Aug 27, 2002
Location
West Unity, Ohio
I said to jam a 2by under the spindle.

My thought on the weights being pinned is for:

A) Noise / unprofessionalism
B) That you would likely install the pins, and then let the head down 'till it's snug, and then jam a block under.

My thought is that the weight would be helping to keep the screw safe.
If you block the weight "UP", then you are adding to any stress on the screw.

I could be all wet [as to the OEM's process / thoughts] but if it was my machine, THAT would be what, and how I would prefer it done, IF the pins were available, or you could make some quickly...


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 

solidworks4u

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 23, 2011
Location
19970 DE USA
Many, many thanks, Ox & Richard King for your speedy response, I have only had a short time to see the mill & no time to look at after reviewing the manuals. Monday, I plan to attach timbers under on underside and take tools with me to access the counterweight area. I will look for any witness lines from where something was attached or pined. If there is away to secure the counterweight, I will try to find it, the "Z" has been lowered with a wood block between the table and spindle, no power to the mill, so if I need to move an axis it could be difficult, specially "z" because of the brake. The seller was not the original owner. My trailer is conventional spring, the seller can help with loading using fork truck, plan to go slow, it's not that far.

Many thanks, to all the members, moderators, and those that sponsor & support this forum, that enable knowledge to be passed along.
 

kb0thn

Hot Rolled
Joined
May 15, 2008
Location
Winona, MN, USA
Also, generator rental isn't too expensive. 30kW trailer mounted generator from rental outfit is maybe $150 for the day. Would be switchable for any voltage / phase combination you need to power the machine up. Might even save you from buying a machine with a bad control...
 








 
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