Automotive machining question…

cosmopedro · Sunday at 8:20 AM

Hi all! Not necessarily a machining question but am betting I’ll get an answer…
Grandson has a 2001 Ranger that I stupidly nicked a section of steel fuel line while cutting off the top shock stud on LF shock… it’s been a while since I did mechanic work so I’m rusty… anyway, I called Ford and that part is no longer available so I’m trying to figure out a workaround that won’t take an entire weekend to create.
I thought about a regular plumbing flare fitting - since I could get the flaring tool in there - but the OD of the (apparently) stainless fuel line section is about .3220 and the ID of a flare nut is .38 and change.
Is that .06 too much of a delta for a flare fitting? I want to flare both ends and insert a flare coupling…

Ideas? Buehler? Buehler? Anyone?!?

Garwood · Sunday at 10:18 AM

The tube is 8mm or 5/16, not 3/8

Ralph_P · Sunday at 11:39 AM

Split a short piece of rubber fuel line and clamp it in place.

cosmopedro · Sunday at 12:02 PM

Ralph_P said:
Split a short piece of rubber fuel line and clamp it in place.

The rubber fuel line keeps slipping off since there’s no ribs on the steel to keep it on…

cosmopedro · Sunday at 12:04 PM

Garwood said:
The tube is 8mm or 5/16, not 3/8

OK - but do you think 3/8” flare would stay on and not leak?

DDoug · Sunday at 12:09 PM

This is "Automotive Machining" ???
Use a proper steel line, make new.
I own the double flare tool kits, bubble flare tools assorted fittings, rolls of steel line in various sizes, and several benders for brake lines.
Have done some fuel line work with it, can buy adapters
if needed.
Or you can bubble gum the job and wonder why the hood blew off
when it leaks, sprays fuel, and the resulting fire consumes the whole vehicle.

Turbowerks · Sunday at 12:12 PM

Use your flair tool to make a bubble flair slide your hose over it and clamp that that will hold the hose on. Use fuel injection hose if the pressure is high. If you dont have that type of flair tool many auto parts stores rent or loan them.

APD · Sunday at 12:16 PM

Use a 5/16" compression union. available in auto parts stores or plumbing depts.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-high-pressure-compression-union-rated-for-5000-psi-5-16-in-800-204/10600426-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=10600426-P&adtype=pla&product_channel=online&store_code=&gclsrc=ds

eKretz · Sunday at 12:42 PM

I wouldn't monkey around with a split rubber hose on fuel line for a fuel injected vehicle. Pressure is pretty decent and if it leaks it could cause a catastrophe. Get the stuff to fix it right. Can you not just replace the entire small section of fuel line with replacement that you bend yourself?

cosmopedro · Sunday at 1:53 PM

DDoug said:
This is "Automotive Machining" ???
Use a proper steel line, make new.
I own the double flare tool kits, bubble flare tools assorted fittings, rolls of steel line in various sizes, and several benders for brake lines.
Have done some fuel line work with it, can buy adapters
if needed.
Or you can bubble gum the job and wonder why the hood blew off
when it leaks, sprays fuel, and the resulting fire consumes the whole vehicle.

While I appreciate the concept of “Use a proper steel line, make new” I apologize for leaving out the fact that I own a plumber’s flaring tool but not a bubble flare tool, my bad. And thanks for the suggestion!
Regarding the attitude with which you presented your suggestion, bend over: I know where to put that.

cosmopedro · Sunday at 1:56 PM

eKretz said:
I wouldn't monkey around with a split rubber hose on fuel line for a fuel injected vehicle. Pressure is pretty decent and if it leaks it could cause a catastrophe. Get the stuff to fix it right. Can you not just replace the entire small section of fuel line with replacement that you bend yourself?

I don’t own a bubble flare tool, and the access path to & around that line is very tight other than the few inches I managed to knick while cutting the shock stud… I like APD’s flare union approach since it’s a repair I can do with tools at hand, and not have to tear half the engine compartment apart to get to both ends of overall line…

cosmopedro · Sunday at 2:16 PM

Turbowerks said:
Use your flair tool to make a bubble flair slide your hose over it and clamp that that will hold the hose on. Use fuel injection hose if the pressure is high. If you dont have that type of flair tool many auto parts stores rent or loan them.

My flaring tool is a plumber’s compression flaring tool… and where I live the auto parts ‘loaners’ are often broken, misadjusted or otherwise unusable! I’ll try APD’s compression union approach because once I have the union I have the tools to install it on hand.

Thanks!

Rob F. · Sunday at 3:30 PM

Get another from junkyard? If you have any nearby.

310 Guy · Sunday at 4:46 PM

Been turning wrenches for 55 years... absolutely do NOT use compression fittings on a vehicle. They work (sort of) in a house because the house (usually) doesn't move or vibrate. If used on a vehicle which vibrates, they will leak. Every time.
CutterBill

cosmopedro · Sunday at 5:30 PM

310 Guy said:
Been turning wrenches for 55 years... absolutely do NOT use compression fittings on a vehicle. They work (sort of) in a house because the house (usually) doesn't move or vibrate. If used on a vehicle which vibrates, they will leak. Every time.
CutterBill

OK - how ‘bout regular plumbing flare fittings? Or Loktite on both ends?

ratbldr427 · Sunday at 6:09 PM

Get an Ermeto or some times called a "Bite" type compression fitting coupler. Use for hydraulic fittings 3k psi and will not leak or vibrate loose. A hydraulic hose shop or any one doing hydraulic work should have some.
Look on line you should find plenty. Where are you? I have plenty of them at work.

john.k · Sunday at 6:27 PM

There is a kind of blue rubber fuel hose that can be slipped over steel pipe and grips without extra fittings ......I use to use a lot of it with the compressors.........plenty of heat and vibration there.

DDoug · Sunday at 6:49 PM

cosmopedro said:
I don’t own a bubble flare tool, and the access path to & around that line is very tight other than the few inches I managed to knick while cutting the shock stud… I like APD’s flare union approach since it’s a repair I can do with tools at hand, and not have to tear half the engine compartment apart to get to both ends of overall line…

So either buy the proper tools or leave.
"Bend over" yourself wanker,

gwelo62 · Sunday at 7:03 PM

What about calling the scrapyard/carbreaker or looking on Rockauto?

Superbowl · Sunday at 7:39 PM

It's steel. Just flush with water and tack weld the nick.

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